Radial arm saws, worse thing for the inexperienced because the rotation of most of them pulls the timber away from the fence. There are loads on ebay at the moment where people have realised they don't get the use out of them they thought they would. I got rid of mine years ago and rely on my chop saw for most 90 cuts up to about 220mm anything else on the sled on the saw table.
Agree. Years ago, had a Dewalt radial saw, a DW8101 think it was, you could mount a router instead of saw head,such a versatile tool, could cut,rout,etc, at all angles, every workshop should have radial saw. Sospan:Look on Ebay, some great books available on making jigs for the router.
So I got the DW745 in the end. Great saw but noisy! Shame you can't get a induction table saws that a light enough to be portable. One thing I want to do with it, instead of a rebate, is just cut a slot across a piece of timber to take a table-to-apron leg bracket, like the attached. Will the DW745 work with the riving knife removed? And what do I need to keep in mind in terms of safety when cutting a slot like this with the riving knife removed?
Obviously have to be careful when removing the riving knife as the guard will be removed as well. Whilst is is frowned upon it is quite common practice (and the only way) to cut slots and rebates this way. When making doors, I normally make the groves for the panel using a table saw, two or three end to end passes and you are done. Probably much safer than using a stacked dado cutter
But if I'm cutting, say, a 5-10 slot into a 20 mm board with riving knife and guard removed, what's the risk? That the board will jump up?
You''ll learn. You need more than a push stick, you need push pads, feather boards and a healthy fear of what these machines can do to you and anyone behind. There is a lot to lean about tables saws - like where to stand and when to use the fence and when not.
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