Die Lorelei 2017

Thanks kools. Its one benefit of having a place of my own post-divorce

 

Yep building it myself, it ain't dificult. Will get the sub-frame and first timbers done myself, got Brother coming down on the 22nd July and should get most of it done. Have partners-daughters-boyfriend available 23rd in case I need him for the roof (and he's 6+ ft tall)

 

Had two days of hard work...having laid out the external timbers of the sub-frame and cut the legs, bought a laser level to make sure everything was spot on. Laser level was useless (couldn't get it consistently level around 360 degrees and the laser was too faint) so reverted to good ol' long spirit level with a reference point in the middle. As I thought, one corner was a tad high, the rest about 1/2" out! So new legs cut after careful measuring and re-measuring. That was Saturday.

Then on Sunday, made up the perimeter timbers having checked and measured the cabin timbers...it is per the plan. External walls are 5300mm x 3300mm so sub-frame is 10mm less all round (ish). Doesn't help that timbers aren't straight but that's wood for you I guess.

Despite checking again and again that the diagonals are the same throughout, there's a 20mm difference once finished. Was able to knock it back half way and I think the rest can be corrected with the first row of cabin timbers. Quite pleased overall and confident its square and level enough. Not easy work though!

Floor joists will go in once the cabin is up with at least 4 internal legs and noggins.

 

There is DPC under each leg too,150 mm x 150mm

 

The instructions say to check the cabin when building every 3 or 4 rows and make sure corners are within 2-3 mm so guess that's the tolerance.

 

One corner adjacent to another, so diagonals might be 4-5mm out, which is a lot. The issue is that if its out by 2-3 mm after just 4 rows, then uncorrected it can magnify to over 1cm which will cause problems when you come to build the roof.

Timber isn't totally straight, I struggled to get things totally level but I would expect your concrete base to be within 2-3mm. At a push you can pack out your treated timbers that go on first, but they need to be well supported.

 

This is what I'm going to use, all Sikkens, with the Protek wood preserver supplied free going on first;
- two coats each of Cetol HLS Plus and Filter 7 in light oak for the main cabin
- Rubol Primer Plus and Satura Plus satin finish in graphite grey (RAL 7024) on the door and window frames, and facias.

The screen shot shows the prices but I will look around again, prices have gone up quite a bit as last time I checked the total was only £167, now its £200!!!

 

www.decoratingwarehouse.co.uk is only £171 and can select the RAL colour from the pick list.

 

@KIAB is there benefit to using really good brushes for this Sikkens stuff, or is a reasonable brush OK? I can imagine that the finish for normal paint benefits greatly from a good brush, but this stuff more sinks in.

 

No idea how you missed this...but you do seem to be busy on here. Sometimes you don't see the wood for the trees.