Door Jamb Repair

I've always tired to keep hinge positions the same when fitting new doors. Unless the hinge screw holes have split.

I prefer to glue a shim of wood in the unused hinge recess, once dry it can be planed flush with a block plane and sanded down, and is hardly noticeable once dried.

 

Around 150mm down from the top and 200mm up from the bottom is the usual spacing.

 

I also whittle wood to make plugs & a blob glue in holes to tap into the screw holes, then par with a chisel, then glue a wood shim over it, same way as Jit.

 

And a solid heavy feature door I would use 3 hinges.

 

Or on a cheap crappy B&Poo number to stop it twisting.

 

Maybe go for solid core ones especially if you have regular arguments

 

If you are doing a load of doors I would advise making a jig up and using a 1/4" router for the hinges, you can get a Makita copy off Fleabay for just over £30.

 

Got one of these hinge jigs, makes hanging doors a doddle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADJUSTABLE-Hinge-Jig-/131824509189?hash=item1eb15a6105:g:FKoAAOSw5VFWM12k

Once finish throw it back on the bay.

 

I make my own, costs nothing. I do have a lot of spare ply though.

 

You can make repairs to a door lining. Remove the architrave and you can get to the side of the lining and work away quite nicely. Sometimes its too your advantage and you can do a simple fix; others you have to do a full on splice.

But in a lot of cases you can overlay old 3 inch hinges with 4 inch and its fine.

 

That shouldn't be too bad to repair, the old hinge position looks too low.

A book remember reading said about position hinges for top 175mm and bottom one 225mm.

 

I think I would purchase new door stops, instead of stripping the paint from them, at least they can be reset after the door is hung.

You could strip the paint and hang one day every 2 days.

 

The hinges you have now need ditching as you know but don't appear to have been chopped in.
If this was my house I would hammer cocktail sticks, matches etc liberally doused in PVA into the old screw holes in the frame and leave to go off and then trim.
Mark up your new doors to match the old hinge spacing then fit and the either move or fit new stops as needed.

 

I fitted new doors in our house a few years ago...Only cheap B&Poo ones. The original doors seemed to have the hinges 6" up & 6" down,as they were probably made off site. I'm no chippy,so although I fitted new hinges, I kept the original positions in the jambs. I bored out the screw holes with a counter sink/boring bit & made plugs with a plug cutter. Glued these in position & fitted the doors. No probs.

 

Cocktail sticks, I need a box for every screw hole on one hinge on dinning room door, ended up whittling some offcuts of doorstop to plug screw holes.

 

I've seen wall plugs knocked into old screw holes before now
I think the 6" down, 8" up is to miss the tenon in a panel door but anywhere thereabouts is fine

 

Those are flush hinges and would normally be used for lighter weight applications. eg cabinets

But the door lining looks okay. overpainted but with a good clean up could present a decent enough bit of wood to work with.

I would use 4 inchers overlaid in the 3 inch rebate.