Door lining!!

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by noterms, May 18, 2016.

  1. noterms

    noterms New Member

    Hi chaps

    I'm going nuts trying to figure out what I can do with an usual size door lining.

    We recently had our living room boarded and skimmed.
    I removed the old door lining as it had been butchered beyond repair.

    I bought a standard door lining kit which a friend fitted and he said a 30" door would suffice but the measurement to the door stop rebate is 28" and the door we have bought at 30" can't be trimmed that much without mucking about cutting out the hollow and pinning back in.

    I've searched the whole internet for a soloution but still nothing.

    The other doors are standard 1981x762 and will go in lovely for the rest of the house.

    But this one I do not know what to do.

    Could I remove the packers and try again as there may be some wiggle room it seems.

    Or would chopping at the brick work to create a larger opening be a remedy? I know that's going to be messy but whatever it takes at this point as I'm at my wits end.

    So to summarise I have 30" door but opening is only 28" height is 77"

    Thank you
     
  2. noterms

    noterms New Member

    -960mmx750
     
  3. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    You just need to buy a 28" door.
     
  4. R.W_Carpentry

    R.W_Carpentry Active Member

    what style door have you bought? 28" doors can be bought but sometimes limited depending on style
     
  5. noterms

    noterms New Member

    Bought oak veneer doors and they don't come in anything close other than 1981x762 I am hell bent on getting it fitted so anything obvious I'm missing?

    I will include some photos later tomorrow but it looks like I may be able to take out the packers and fit a standard lining or make one up.

    Tempted to get a tradesperson in to do it but doubt they will waste time on it.
     
  6. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Pre-made liners usually come with 2 different sizes cut into the top rail but whoever fitted yours will probably cut the horns off.
    A new liner is fairly cheap if you have the room to fit a wider one.
     
  7. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    You will need to take out the lining and find out much space is left. With any luck it may have been packed out to fit a 28 inch door. If not then you will have to reframe, if that is doable in the situation. Messy and time consuming, but you will get what you want.
     
  8. noterms

    noterms New Member

    Thanks for your replies chaps.

    I will take some photos tonight when home. It does look as though I can remove the shims and have about an inch either side until it hits the bottom. Won't take out till weekend when I manage to start fitting the doors.

    It's the only door I'm going to have problems with as the others will just throw in.

    been working on the old doors practicing the hinge cut out with a router
     
  9. noterms

    noterms New Member

    When you say reframe is that cutting away the bricks to the correct opening? What is involved in this just a case of hammer and bolster? A saw will just cause too much mess but as we are having the hallway done also it shouldn't be too bad if I can cover the living room
     
  10. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Use an sds drill and drill a series of holes 'stitch drilling' to widen the opening. Finish off with a hammer and bolster. Get a helper to hold a back too while you still.
     
  11. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Or, hold a vac while you drill even :)
     
  12. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    Is the door in a load bearing wall? If so its acros and a new lintel and so on.

    It depends on what you find you can work with. A good solid wall will have to be cut. The advantage is the door can go where you want.

    An old victorian might mean taking out lathe and plaster or even a section of brickwork. Or if its simpler and gives a better working, take out the whole wall and restud.

    or find a 28 incher.................
     
  13. Big Adam

    Big Adam New Member

    Go open plan :)
     
  14. noterms

    noterms New Member

    Quick question.

    After measuring the width of brick work to plasterboard I have 120mm which looking at timber merchants is bang on size with what I can purchase.

    But after reading it gives a nominal size and a finished size?
    - Nominal Size: 32 x 138mm (Finished Size: 27.5mm x 132mm)



    which width should I purchase 132mm? Or 120mm
     
  15. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    i would go with a lining slightly wider than the other way round. You then have the option of either cutting it down or some creative caulking.
     
  16. noterms

    noterms New Member

    Thanks from plasterboard in living room to brick work it's 85mm once hallway is boarded that's another 35.5mm with adhesive board and plaster so I got myself a 132mm wide frame.

    The plaster can just go up to it with dab if I'm out slightly.

    The top of wall is concrete block the black stuff forget the name of thermalite I think? One side brick other side thermalite.

    I have been looking at the fixings without plugs with the torx end on the head 100mm screws.

    Any other suggestions before I have a go at this?

    Have a few scraps of pine strips for packers so I'm ready to go with my new impact driver swish woo ;)

    Trouble is now I won't be able to have architrave all round the doors as they are co joined to each other so some creative thinking will be in order.

    Cheers for the tips.
     
  17. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Just use plugs and screws. Drill through lining straight into block work using a masonary bit on hammer. Push plugs into lining, put screw into them and then turn then hammer straight through into block work, then nip up with the impact driver. Pack frame out first, and refine as you go to get it plumb.
     
  18. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Nominal is the size the timber was cut at in the saw mill and finished is the size it is after it has been through a 4 square moulder ie this is the size of the timber when you buy it.
    You normally lose about 1/4" or 6mm between the 2 processes.
     
  19. noterms

    noterms New Member

    Any advice on what to do regards frames that butt up to one another. Don't know the term for it but our frames run in a trio perpendicular to each other makes its a mare for door trim.

    I'm tempted to replace the frames on the two remaining sides but I think it will be a pointless exercise if truthful.

    Any thoughts?
     
  20. noterms

    noterms New Member

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