Dot and dab disaster, uneven wall, need some advice please

From recently taking down a D&D wall, it's clear that the adhesive will easily cope with 20+mm gaps.

So, yes, you just need thicker dabs in the hollows and less where it comes out. I presume you are using a good straight edge like a 4x2 to get the boards pressed in flat and horizontal? Just get the board in position, place the timber against it, and set a level on that. Then use a rubber mallet or similar to tap tap tap tap the board against the wall until you know the stickier-out parts (top two corners) have virtually made contact with little adhesive thickness left there, and use that as your 'guide' for the rest.

But obviously the dabs have to start off significantly thicker than the void it'll end up filling.

I think I'd also add significantly more dabs in the hollow parts. Possibly you could make the adhesive a slightly thicker mix too?

When that adhesive sets, it's rock hard.

(PS - I've never D&B'd myself, so do check out vids on YouTube first to be certain... )

 

A thought. I presume if you've removed the board after the first attempt, there will be some adhesive left behind on the walls?

I guess you scraped off the bits on the 'stick-out' parts of the wall, but perhaps a 'DIY' solution (ie the sort of thing I would do) would be to apply a cm or two of dabs on the hollow parts first and allow them to set - before then D&B'ing the board on.

That should effectively bring the contact points out to the same level all over?

 

You can apply the new dabs and shove up the board as soon as the 'spacer' dabs have 'set' solid. They don't have to be allowed to dry out.

Good luck - and let us know how it's going

(Unless it's pear-shaped...)

 

sounds like the wall all over the shop lol. I would suggest the best way would be to batten the wall using packers in order to create a level and square frame.

you can of course do the same with thicker and liberally applied dot and dab, but you shouldn't go too deep with your dab.

if the window is on the wonk then I would suggest getting that straight first and working out from your now plumb and square plasterboarded window.

don't get to hung up on it however, remember if it looks right then it is right.

 

+1. Having done many, many projects over the years you come to realise stuff can be way out of line and still look fine. As I look at my tall oven unit end panel now, only I know its 25mm off the wall at the top, hidden by a cover strip - the wall isn't plumb, but noone ever notices. If tiling you want to avoid lippage, but if you bend the wall down the joint lines unlikely anyone will notice, unless they're mirror tiles or something that causes odd reflections.

 

are you going the screw the new second board to the wall?

the more weight added the bigger the strain on the initial dot and dab. I would advise against it but it would probably be fine.

as for fixings I would use proper plasterboard fixings such as the ones with the self tapping screw rawlplugs. Or the ones with flatten out behind once tightened it order to give better support.

 

Don't, Don't try large format tiles as first time attempt. They are way harder to install looking good than smaller tiles. You not only have to make sure the wall is flat, but that your adhesive coverage is even, or you'll fight them across the room and back again. The best tiles for a first attempt IMO are tiles which have a slightly softened/rounded edge rather than ones that are knife-edge sharp. You can pinch a smidgen on every joint if necessary and not see it. Start from a horizontal batten fixed to the wall and plan, plan and plan some more where the cut edges are. Usually best to cut to every edge unless you have a perfect wall. If you are going round the room check the level all the way round - the inexpensive laser levels are a god send - I have this one - http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-quigo2-self-levelling-cross-line-laser-level/7122g. mount it on a cheap photogs tripod so you can position it wherever. Nothing looks worse than thin slivers of tiles that are diferent widths, so try and always cut at least half a tile width. If you haven't bought your tiles yet, I work on 10% wastage on small tiles and 15% on large, measured on area, and it usually works out, but you might want to add a bit more for cock-ups on a first attempt.

 

you can do that just be aware that if you over tighten the fixings that it will pull in the boards and damage them.

the same applies to fixing shelves etc.

sometimes using plasterboard fixings is a better option if you are sure the base board is solid and has plenty of dot and dab behind it.

I learnt the hard way, trying to fix a kitchen cabinet up I wanted a solid fixing into the Brock wall and used dot and dab instead of a timber sub frame. I had to use standoffs and essentially push them through the board to the right length to stop the plasterboard from collapsing in. Time consuming and messy bodge lol.

I would suggest a good number of plasterboard fixings equally spaced across the entire board would suffice. Just be aware that if the boards get damp in the future you may find the fixings begin to sag. So perhaps adding thin beads of adhesive such as gripfill between the boards with give you some extra support and backup should the fixings fail in the future.

just remember there is a fine line between over tighten and loose when it comes to screw fixing plaster board. Keep all fixings as straight as possible and if needed hand tighten just so it pinches the board.

spread the weight of the board and soon to be added tiles across the largest surface area by applying multiple fixings top to bottom.

waterproof the board to protect from damp and water ingress.

use lighter tiles if at all possible.

hope you find the suggestions usefull.

 

......and get a wet diamond wheel cutter which may be a bit slower but IMO is more foolproof than the score and snip cutters - I have the cheapest little plasplugs which is years old now and have prob done 20-25 tiling projects in various houses and for various people with it now. Cut everything from flooring slates, granite, to 10mm 600x600 (with a home cobbled table extension).

 

Its not so much the plumb as any twist. You can lose the out of plumb - noone will see- provided it is flat. Same with a belly or bow in one plane only - you can absorb it along the grout line, but any twist with large format tiles and you are going to fight it. I know - I've just done my bathroom with 600x600! Use a top quality cement based adhesive for large format, but be careful where you buy it from. The yellow shed wanted £55 bag for bal fibre plus, when I can get the dunlop equivalent for £14 from the builders merchant. Large format is doable but tricky. Get that first tile or two on and use a straight edge across the face to see where you are going to end up. ANY twist will show up as horrid lipping. Also, make sure you butter both the tile and the wall with adhesive. These things are heavy, and you need to make absolutely sure you have a good bond. I'm only DIY. suggest go to the tilers forum and get some more advice.

Best advice though, unless you have already bought them, is to use a smaller tiles for a first attempt - much easier! I've done many tiling projects and this latest one with 600's was the toughest yet to get right.