Fascia advice

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by mickc, Dec 14, 2013.

  1. mickc

    mickc Member

    Fascia and guttering came off and smashed during recent bad weather....10 m straight runs

    The old wood behind the capped upvc appears to have rot and the wind has pulled it off... It was done 20 ish years ago

    Had a few quotes to replace £500+.... Think I'll give it a bash myself considering the materials don't cost that much

    As you can from the pics there is no soffits

    I'm thinking I'll need to fit new wooden fascia and then cap with PVC and fit new gutters?

    Advice
    Cheers




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  2. Hi mickc, you don't need any timber, the practise of cladding over the old timber as you had before with capping board is a cheap and nasty way to replace Fascia's.
    Now your's is all down you want to fit all new UPVC (18mm + in my opnion) you should also look at fitting felt support tray as roof felt will be damaged under 1st row of tiles and over fascia vents would be good practice (see photo), then attached your new gutters :)


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    1M Eaves vent £2.50 "ish"
    1.5M Felt Tray £1.50 "ish"
    Fascia and gutters £80 "ish"

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  3. mickc

    mickc Member

    Thanks fir the reply, but how would i fix the upvc to the roof?
  4. You will need something like Screwfix item 88405 (Polytop nails), by "something like" I mean the same as but half the price Screwfix have them on sale for.

    Nail through Fascia into ends of rafters, then Screw gutter brackets direct to new Fascia.

    P.s I have re-read your first post and missed the 10M bit, Fascia and gutters would be more like £120 "ish"
  5. mickc

    mickc Member

    Will the polypins hold it securely?

    The rafters may be soft with the rooted wood?
  6. 65mm Polypins through 18mm Fascia gives you 47mm of nail into rafters (worked that out without my calculator :) ) should be more than enough to secure Fascia and gutters, if all the rafters are that rotten on the ends I would be a bit worried, however if you need to attach new pieces of timber (or of cuts of UPVC Fascia) to ensure good fixing on a few not a problem, this is often done anyway, to get a straight line as rafters are often not 100% in line.....

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    Attached Files:

    jeznotts likes this.
  7. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select


    Sorry to say it, but that is the biggest cowboy job I've ever seen. Is that for real?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  8. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    The benefits of putting timber up first are these(at least):

    You can attach the timber with as many fixings(nails or screws) as you like to make it secure. Once attached you can be assured that each fixing through th uPVC is solid.
    You eliminate hit and miss fixings through uPVC. What happens when a fixing is put through the uPVC and goes into a bad rafter end or existing nail hole? And with less than 50mm of 2.5mm pin into old rafter ends you'll be VERY lucky to get good fixings.
    You can't keep banging in new pins all over your finished board!
    Another benefit is that the guttering brackets also go through the uPVC into timber every time, further fixing the fascia.
    Proper job.

    If you need to level up and strengthen the rafter ends, much better to use similar sized timber fixed to sides of rafter at decent length. You will then also have a new end to fix to.
    Packing the sides with fascia offcut is rubbish. Fixing into the rafters would need longer fixings and also you'll be fixing through a void where packed out.

    Anyway......

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
    FatHands likes this.
  9. Let me get this right, remove old fascia (already done in this case) put timber fascia up to then secure UPVC onto !!! What a total load of s h I t .
    No nails go into bad rafters as you check them before !!!! Secured 1000M's of gutters direct onto Fascia and never had any come down.
    jeznotts likes this.
  10. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select



    Yep. And I've repaired 1000s of metres of fascia that has fallen down for exactly the reasons I've stated above.

    You don't happen to do your fitting in Hampshire, do you?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  11. no, don't work in Hampshire......neither do http://www.letsfasciait.co.uk/soffitsandfascias.php best you call them on Monday and let them know they don't know what they are doing.

    for the record I also don't work for lets-fascia-it, that was the first web site I came upon.

    with most homes having average of 20M of Fascia you telling me you have had all the fascia's falling off over 50 houses that you have had to repair.

    you best also contact this lot http://www.eurocell.co.uk/homeowners/423/18mm-fascia-board-fitting-instructions let them know that they don't know how to fit Fascias correctly.
  12. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select


    Many more than 50 houses needing that repair. I worked for a company that mainly dealt in insurance jobs. Most of the jobs were of 18mm fascia boards pinned to rafter ends(normally rafter ends that would benefit from at least 75mm fixings-any normal polypin would not do).
    Others where timber fascia was clad over but not in good state of repair.

    In almost all cases, new timber fascia (sometimes solid wood, sometimes wbp ply)was added to the rafter ends then clad over.

    I would say that 100% of those repairs would not have been necessary if it was installed such in the first instance.

    Fact.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  13. mickc

    mickc Member

    Andy

    What timber would you use?

    Ta
  14. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Treated pine or exterior ply.
    Either get a size that brings the timber out 25mm from the wall edge or pack rafter ends to bring thinner board out. 18mm minimum for ply, 20mm minimum for pine. (reason I say out 25mm is for the cappit board cap that covers the bottom of the timber)

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  15. mickc

    mickc Member

    Cheers folks... It was exterior ply that was used before... Ill give that a try.... Will the builders merchant sell that already cut to size?
  16. jeznotts

    jeznotts Member

    hello
    thank you at last somebody has posted a photo of how you should fit facias with the 'sprockets' this ensures a straight job
    mr handy has no idea what he is talking about again fitting a wooden back board on to old rafters is by far and away the most diy bodge job method there is
    this i know as i too worked for a national firm started by a friend of mine who i think pioneered this method and was fully backed by the manufacturer and insurance company as the only right for 'replacement'
  17. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select



    *. I'll tell you what ensures a straight job. A straight piece of timber all the way along.

    These bits of fascia offcut added to the rafter ends are merely packers and offer NO structural benefit. Timber does it all, gives something solid to fix to(ALL ALONG ITS LENGTH, ANYWHERE), is fixed straight, correct height and takes ALL the weight of the eaves tiles.

    These people above state their proffessionalism, but they have only been going 20 years (and no doubt weren't fitting this stuff 20 years ago).

    I WAS. I refused to fit the chunky board after seeing for myself(and I've seen many other unprofessional ways of fitting even clad-over) why it was such a rubbish idea. I would not put my name to that.

    I have pointed out the pitfalls above. I have seen it, fixed it, bought the T-shirt as they say.

    The ONLY benefits of whacking chunky uPVC straight onto rafters is CHEAPNESS and SPEED.
    You try swinging on that stuff, you'll be on the floor!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really



    Edited by Screwfix Peter due to language
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2013
  18. jeznotts

    jeznotts Member

    hello
    really and you are that sure?, by the way is it not you in the hampshire area fitting boards? so by the very comments that you wrote above shows that you really have no idea what the sprockets ,yes they have a name, are actually doing we both do and i have been going longer that 20 years and yes i was fitting them 20 years ago, properly, you will not get those boards straight nailing any thing onto the old rafters the wooden boards probably were not straight in the first place you have refused to fit the proper stuff because you have seen some come off that was no doubt fitted by a moron as this pvc industry is littered with people who have no idea what they are doing, eh mandy, i knew that you would use this method as i know you have no idea what you are talking about and it is quite normal to screw the gutter brackets straight to the proper board as per manufacturer!
    ps what are those skinny little boards going to nailed to when the timber rots out, or better still when the already rotting rafter ends finally go?
    of course you won't know as you now nothing about this subject, i refer you again to the title of this forum, john wane.
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2013
  19. jeznotts

    jeznotts Member

    ha ha ha ha !!!!
  20. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    ps what are those skinny little boards going to nailed to when the timber rots out, or better still when the already rotting rafter ends finally go?

    That timber fascia will be up there a lot damn longer than any chunky pvc knocked on with poxy polypins.
    And you remember this. Whatever the rafter ends are like, they get the same treatment as YOU would give them, but you will be putting poxy pins into old rafters, in the end-grain, and I will be whacking 3" nails through timber into those ends(and as many nails as it takes to get a good fixing).

    You CAN'T do that with uPVC and polypins.

    A simple string-line will show a straight line for to pack out the rafters. Timber fascia is now put up dead straight, no problem. You have very solid structure to pin and screw brackets into. Proper ventilation(say soffit vents) and both you and I will be dead before that needs replacing(and I ain't about to die soon!)

    I don't want to hear about cheaper, faster options. I just want it to stay there.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
    FatHands likes this.

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