I have an old house built in 1920s the walls are of stone structure and of solid plaster on the inside. I had the ground floor skimmed a few years ago and walls are still good. However the bedroom walls aren’t so good and were never re – skimmed. The other problem is that the house is cold and as the walls are solid structure cavity insulation is not an option; I also don’t want to go down the route of insulating the inside with stud and plasterboard. The way I want to go is to use wallrock thermal liner on external walls and cover with fibreliner premium on top of the thermal liner, I believe it’s supposed to be like a plaster finish which is what I'm aiming for or near as. To keep costs down I plan to use fibreliner or Erfurt red label on the non external walls. Now for my conundrum, as I’ve said I want to aim for a plaster like or flat finish and don’t want gaps seen in my lining paper once I’ve painted over the top it. I have seen a guy on YouTube (see link) do this which he says apply a coat of emulsion to the lining paper and allow to dry, then mix the filler smooth and quite runny then sand the filler using a smooth sanding pad or sandpaper, then remove any dust and recoat with paint, best to give three coats. So I guess what I'm asking has anyone tried this and will it work and turn out ok. I also have bay windows, will this be a problem with the thermal liner as I have only papered a few times.
Also been looking into the thermal liner paper recently to use on a cold external wall. Yep it's expensive, more so as highly recommended you use their specific paste for the thermal liner. 10lt bucket only hangs 2 rolls (large roll size though) Also recommended that you paper over the thermal liner with their fibreliner (more expense) ! To save money on the internal walls, could you not prep them (sand, fill, repeat) then line with say minimum 1400 grade lining paper - maybe 1700 Is the bay a curve or made up of flat sections ? Just thinking as the thermal liner is around 6mm thick. Curve will be fine, flat sections would have to be papered also in sections Finally, as a diyer, I've had gaps in my lining paper before. Have read up as you've done and also experimented. Agreed that found best to leave gaps at first and give one coat of emulsion Found using filler as in video was noticeable after further coats of emulsion. As you scrape off excess filler it leaves a smooth texture which stands out against the slight texture of the paper and the slight texture from the roller (even when using a medium pile roller) Tend to use caulk now, cut nozzle to a tiny opening, run the smallest amount of caulk down the gap, trying to minimise overspill. Flatten off caulk and push into gap with a scraper. As the excess caulk builds up on the scraper, stop frequently and clean off the scraper. You want to minimise spreading caulk over the face of the paper. Any excess caulk can be wiped off with a damp cloth. Allow to dry a good few hours and emulsion over. Again, I'm only DIY but this method worked for me Will let you know if I get round to using the thermal liner -likewise, update if you go ahead Obviously a 'pro' doesn't end up with gaps in their paper but ......
Wallrock Thermal Liner is 3.2mm thick and the Wallrock Thermal Liner KV600 is 4mm thick, as you say this is then lined over with the Fibre liner, to be honest never had a problem with joints on these liners. Pricing a job at present for the 3.2mm circa £42.00 for 75cm x 10m roll, used plenty of fibre liner on rough walls...very tough wall covering...try ripping it!
DIY Dave Thanks for your input That was my plan to save a few quid using 1400 grade lining (red label) but do wonder after painting will there be a noticeable difference between the 1400 grade and the premium liner which would be on top of the thermal liner. The bay windows edges are rounded with wood quadrant, however the downstairs which I had the walls plastered are of flat metal bead sections if that’s what you mean? I have heard of people using caulk is it noticeable in anyway, let’s say with a 2mmm gap.
Astramax Thanks for your input Am I right in saying that the best way to apply this would not be to leave any gaps.
Forums
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Instagram
Shop