Finishing Pine Floorboards

I've always found this company very helpful:


Floorco Flooring Services
Tel: 01933 418899

 

hire a floor sander/ and an edge sander, punch all nails and screws below surface and sand it! hoover up and then use RONSEAL DIAMOND HARD floor varnish, available in gloss/ satin finishes. did this to the new boards in my loft conversion 6 years ago and havnt had to redo yet!

 

As above - use Ronseal or Dulux floor varnish which is water-based and won't 'yellow' the same as oil-based stuff.

Dries MUCH faster, easy-peasy to use, and is very hard wearing - but grit on shoes could still mark the actual TIMBER - ie: pine is pretty soft so will be damaged by sharp grit which the varnish is powerless to protect against. So, mat inside door, and shoes off...

 

I found the water based stuff used to wear quickly , despite 6 coats had to redo every 6 months.

 

osmo wax oil

 

SIX coats, Nigel?! That couldn't possibly have worn through!

Perhaps they just dulled a little, but surely not 'worn'?

Water-based paints are now superior to their oil-based equivalents in almost every field - masonry, floor, etc.

 

The problem is spelled out in your title.

Pine is NOT a hard wood, so no matter what you treat it with, its NOT going to be hardwearing.
Pine floorboards were never intended to be a finished floor surface. Sand and stain/varnish them if you wish, but it will only ever be a temporary job.

You need hardwood flooring for it to last!

Sorry, but I am right on this!

 

Within reason...


I've fitted new softwood T&G floorboards to my hallway because it simply suits the age of the house better than a hardwood or laminate.

Ok, I do have a couple of runners covering the most walked on areas, but the exposed sections are still looking good. However, outdoor shoes with grit on them is a no-no...

 

"Water-based paints are now superior to their
oil-based equivalents in almost every field -
masonry, floor, etc."

Utter utter tosh - they are vastly inferior, most notably the 'carrier' does not penetrate the substrate anywhere near as well, and they do not set as hard either - this leads to vastly inferior wear and longevity.

 

When was the last time you used solvent-based masonry paint, Mr Grim?

Anyways, you might be right in general, but I would suggest there is very little in it, and water-based stuff is MILES more convenient to use.

 

"When was the last time you used solvent-based masonry paint, Mr Grim?"

What is it that you are saying DA, they are defunct?

Solvent-based masonry paints are very much alive and are often required. This is especially true if the work has to be carried out during the winter months or where the climate gives the painted surface a bit of a battering.

When a masonry paint system has failed because the binder has broken down, it is a solvent-based solution that rejuvenates the surface in preparation for repainting.

Many manufacturers produce solvent-based masonry paints, such as; Dulux Weathershield All Seasons, Johnstone's Stormshield and Glidden Trade Endurance.

I have to agree with Refurb Bob in that pine should not be exposed to foot traffic. It looks terrible when it suffers from wear. I feel especially saddened when I see the treads of a staircase worn away.

Cuprinol Bourne Seal still remains as one of the favoured, durable varnishes for floors. And of course button polish gives a parquet floor a lovely rich look.

 

3-4 years ago when I last painted my house DA.

Current project is using a lot of international matt black exterior paint - I had an old 3/4 tin lovely high VOC, needed more and had to get the same paint but now it is low/no VOC, it is like chalk and cheese. I'm not saying it's bad, it's just not as good - not as penetrating and not as hard dried.

Anyways, that's my experience and perception - right or wrong!

 

Ok, then, but apart from that...

 

DA --- Yes , 6 coats, and a mop on 'topcoat' treatment every week to boost protection, still had to sand back a retreat .

 

I don't understand that, Nigel. Which product was it?