Stud wall project using 89 x36mm CLS. Removed floorboard, used packers to help level. Off cut used to gauge wall plate. Fix level to wall using plugs. Wall plate fixed to above joist above. Services relocated using conduit and metal knockout boxes, 25mm used, position below surface to acceptplasterboard. Will fix remaining uprights after windows and steel fitted as limited room
Used masking tape for level reference. Will be fixing in noggins at floor level later on, as these can be used for skirting board fixings. I can now concentrate on getting the service in as only put in the first 2 and last uprights.
Was going to use drylining boxes, but people on here prefer to use knock out boxes. The box is set a below the surface to the plaster board will go over (12.5mm + 3mm skim) so eventually to depth would be 40mm+, will use longer screw. Essentially its just a knock out box which has been sunk deeper. Intend on cutting out the slot in plasterboard once sheet has been fitted so will be left like this, the box will provide the outline
No base plate? Neat work, tho'. (Someone on here - Chippie or similar - suggested fit base plate and sit wallplate on top. Mark off the uprights on this - touching the ceiling - and add 3mm. Cut. Nice and tight...)
I don't blame you for doing it this way as marking out the back-box hole for the p'board can be a pain. Mind you, in your case you have access to the back of the p'board so could easily place the board in position and mark it dead accurately from behind. Remove, cut and screw in place. And all you'd need to do is replace the current 25mm deep box with a deeper one - say 35mm. (Less dusty and tatty-looking when you do the 'lectrics.)
Just made a test cut using a scrap piece. Option 1 (25mm box) - This was made by fixing the plasterboard, and then using a saw to cut within the box. Result is a bit rough looking, could have used a finer blade. Could have made neater cut by cutting out roughly then marking up and then using multi toll to fine finish. Still would be covered by face-plate. Option 2 (35mm box) - plasterboard held in place, then drew around using pencil from back. Used multi tool to cut board. Option 2 seems the best method as edges of cut plasterboard are less exposed and there is some support offered from the box.
The 35mm box is the proper way with the plasterboard overlapping the knockout box. To mark the plasterboard, hit it where the box is with the side of your hammer.You will then have a mark on the plasterboard to cut around.
Absolutely, option 2 every time. Nice job. I personally don't use fancy tools for this, chust a good Stanley knife. I use a small screwdriver or similar to make a hole in each corner as a guide, and then cut straight lines between them. Not going too deep each cut - just keep running it along. You can even dig the blade deep if you prefer and wiggle it along... Perfectly neat accurate cutouts.
Neat looking job. Well done. I have just started upgrading my workshop roof. Its been in place 35 years but the roof is sagging with age. Bit like me. Sheets of 18 mm ply and 3x2s delivered this morning. I am quite looking forward to the job. Wife thinks I am going senile. " Why don't you just read the paper and walk the dog like the neighbours " We got a cat but you know what I mean. Johnny M
Sorted out the door side today and re-routed the electrics. Door frame on hinge side wasn't totally plumb as I had followed the original plaster line which was out. Had to pack out the plasterboard so that when plastered it has a consistent edge. Door jamb side had to be packed out as had developed a bow so had to carefully pack out, as didn't fix this side when fitted the door earlier in the year.
I'm going to complete the stud work and plasterboard the inside of the bedroom, at least then this room can be cleared and finished off and will keep thing a bit tidier in here. The ceiling will be eventually skimmed over as well as the boarding, will end up removing the doors prior as and plaster on them will react with the oak. This will happen later on in the build, or until at least the loft steels and flooring are in place.
All stud work in place. Temporary light put in to make things easier to be seen, area will be used as a store until upstairs is complete. Temp racking fixed on stud uprights to make use for storage of timber. Gaffa tape use to stop dust trickling down from loft. Temporary batten to corner of plasterboard to prevent damage during works. Insulation put in above door prior to boarding, studwork had to be packed out using 63mm CLS to allow for plaster skim. Area to hinge side of door needed to be boxed out to match door frame width. Timber used the packed out accordingly. Fine mesh tacked on to protect corner. Electrical and services in place. Light switch is 3-way on grid switch using MK, maybe changed to 4 way later, using intermediate. Other switch to be wired in later. Large PVC trunking 100x50mm I found in skip finally came in useful, this will eventually house wires Boarding carried out to inner face of bedroom for now. All screwed in at approx 150mm intervals, screws driven slightly below surface, impact wrench maybe to heavy, will try drill driver on clutch mode next time.
I'll try them next time, the impact is too powerful and would drive the screw in all the way. Windows will arrive in 4 weeks.