Fitting a stable door

Hi Morty,

I have no experience of a domestic application of a stable door but I can think of a few potential problems. I would think that it would be hard to draft proof so if you are in an exposed position think of this. The frame has to be well pinned in to take the stress of the two doors, especially the upper. Security has to be good as the bottom door is easier to kick in as the lock tends to be in the upper door so good locks on both is a consideration. They tend to make a room dark as the windows, if any, are small.

I could not actually think of any plus points so sorry to be Mr Negative.

On fitting proper stable doors the bottom door top edge and the top door bottom edge are mitred so that when the top door is locked the bottom cannot be opened. I do not think this features on domestic doors. Obviously in a stable the doors open outwards so you may wish to think of this as it strengthens the whole when locked.

Expansion and warpage may cause a problem so seal it well all round. As the top door may be open more than the bottom the doors dry and swell at different rates, well proper stable doors do, so I am not sure of the warm house side and the cold outside affects on the timber.

I feel that relating my comments to a proper stable door might not pick up on more important issues but I hope my comments are of use.

DWD

 

hi morty,
as dwd says,
you could half check the doors as in double door sets
include a rain deflector on the top door.
best to use a timber one,as the aluminium ones look awful
hope this helps
cheers john

 

With an inward opening door the upper should open inward while the bottom remains locked which means the security problem is more with the upper door as the upper helps keep the lower closed.
Idealy mortice locks in both and surface bolt between both and also top and bottom .Important to get hinge alignment spot on to avoid binding problems.

 

My parents had a stable door put in their kitchen and it had a rebate at the top of the lower section with an opposite rebate in the top to prevent opening the lower door without the top door opening as well.
Draughts were no problem because it was in a much warmer climate.

 

The only thing I can add is that it might be easier to fit the stable door as 'one', instead off trying to fit the bottom then the top. Just try to stop the kids from jumping or leaning on the bottom section! They tend to think it makes a nice swing!

 

hello boy , i fitted a pair of these last year and if i recall corectly they ar initaly designed to open outwards as stated earlier ref the rebates, but this customer required them to open inwards it was a lot more work because of the need for a second rain bar and draught proofing. allthough it did work out in the end. but what i did was set the frame up nice and level and not twisted flat down on the ground, slot in your two sections of doors as they would be hung, set up all your relevant gaps eg; and most critically between the two sections,and all around were u want them . then mark up for all your hinges in one go , no balancing act required. with the locks i used a normal 5lever mortice for the main lock and a couple of substantial sliding bolts dont look out of place, further to this for added security she asked me to fit some of those concealed star nib key efforts. the por girls hose got screwed a couple of weeks after there were wrecking bar wealts all over the stable doors but they didnt budge and with the french doors which i fitted next to them and they didnt budge either so i think im being fair when i say i took two brownie points and a pat on the back for the extra effort. but again dont forget to set up for the gap between the two sections first, everything else can be shot in.