Fitting new radiator to Plasterboard wall

Hi Jase.

Would you prefer to keep the rad, brackets and holes where they are? You can.

You have discovered the biggest issue with fixing into plasterboard; once there's movement - any movement - it'll begin to fail. P'board is astonishingly strong - until this point.

What you need is (a) a p'board fixing that 'locks' into place so's it grips the board from both sides and (b) anything else you can do to prevent movement!

For (a), I'd suggest this type of fixing: http://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-blue-plasterboard-fixings-25-x-20mm-8-pack/7518j or the other kind (which I can't find on the SF site) which is metal and has an expanding 'basket' which opens up and flattens out against the back of the 'board as the bolt is screwed in, and that secures it permanently in the board. The bolt can then be removed at will.

In other words, only choose fixings that are permanently 'locked' in place.

Both of these (certainly the 'Gripit') will require a larger hole than you currently have, so that means you can keep your existing locations.

The next important issue - even more important - is to prevent any movement in that fixing, and the simplest way to do that is to bond the brackets to the wall when you finally screw them in place. A thin bead of StixAll or similar zig-zagged on the mating face of the bracket will do this. It not only helps to strengthen it all, making it much stronger, but simply prevents any movement. Without that movement, the p'board fixing is hugely strong and should present no issues at all.

 

I love it when people are soooo in awe that they chust repeat my post...

 

Cool.

And the new rad can now be the same size as before, not smaller (rarely a good idea to go smaller, as larger rads can provide the same heat output but with cooler water, so better for modern condensing boilers.)

Don't forget to bond the actual brackets to the wall so's they never move! But only do this when you have done a 'dry-run' on the bracket's location - fit the rad and check it's where you want it - pipes line up, etc - remove again. Slacken the screws and squeeze in some StixAll or similar. The main purpose is not to strengthen the bracket's fix to the wall - although it'll certainly help with that - but just to stop it moving and loosening.

 

Can I suggest an alternative way of dealing with this.
I don't think I have ever hung a rad on plasterboard ( but I have used this method for other things) but what I would do is work out where the brackets are to be sited, use a Stanley knife and cut away the plasterboard sufficiently to fit a piece of timber at least wide enough to accept the bracket and thick enough so it sits just below the plasterboard....then fix it to the wall using plugs and screws. make good with filler level with the plasterboard. When filler is hard sand down , paint and screw the brackets in place. Fit the rad... job done.
P.S. if you prefer you could fit the brackets to the wood and THEN use the filler but that means you lose access to the screws and the rad will sit closer to the wall.

 

Much stronger and more reliable, no question..

But a hell of a lot more work.

And it relies on there being a suitable wall material behind the plasterboard onto which to attach the battens.

 

I agree about what you say re the material behind the plasterboard.. if its brick then no problem.. if its stud wall then its trickier. but still doable.( just) lol.. I live in a flat with all brick walls so Im biased and tend to forget new builds are all partition walls.

I disagree it is a " hell of a lot more work" ( if there is brick wall behind) ... doesnt take long to cut a window in the plasterboard and screw timber to the wall, fill it then screw the brackets on.

 

Or cut a window and slide in a small sheet 300x400mm of 18 or 25 mm ply with adhesive on. Add a screw at each corner and there is then a decent backing to support it ...

 

I've had to do something like this before for a commercial premises. Staff kept sitting on the rad and PB fixings weren't up to the task.

This is pretty much that we did came off at the time not sure if it's still on now. New builds should just PlY line where the rads go that would just e to simple

 

I'd never personally rely on plasterboard fixings to secure a rad, but I was answering Jase's request for advice where he is a self-confessed DIY novice, and was about to fit a smaller rad chust so's he could put plastic plugs in to fresh holes.

So I think that butchering the wall to fit a noggin behind it would be going a wee bit far in this case.

With the use of decent p'board fixings like the two I suggested, coupled with rad brackets which are secured - adhered - to the wall to prevent movement, I am as sure as a sure thing that he'll have no issues at all.

Provided he doesn't invite round his work colleagues who might sit on the thing...

 

If its dabbed board then easy peasy.
Prob be ok with just drilling holes through into brick, putting screws through brackets, screw rawl plug onto screw and then hammering screw through and into brick. Put a bit of stixall on bracket(keep DA happy ) then tighten up...but not too much to collapse PB.
Alternatively, drill through, use a holesaw to remove PB, then use holesaw to cut some wood shims to bring brick out level with PB, then screw on brackets. Although not a massive rad, that new one will still be pretty heavy, as I fitted one last week...then add the water etc.
those PB fixings DA linked to look good too. Think they were featured on Dragons Den and see them about quite regularly now in the merchants. Anyone used them?

 

Can't say I was aware of them until I saw the link above .I've never trusted anything being held up on plasterboard itself . I always use the method I outlined above but I'd be interested to see any tests they have been used in and how they stood up to a heavy load .

 

Plasterboard, as you know, is amazingly strong and will take huge loads.

Right up to the point that the paper layer is torn...

So the secret is to drill cleanly and then prevent any subsequent movement.

But, yes, it's always a compromise.

But but - you use a dab of StixAll to stop them brackets from moving, and I tells ye that rad'll still be standing when the rest of the hoosie comes down.

 

Pop out to screw fix & get some chemical anchor resin & some metal studs with nuts. Mark up where your new rad brackets are going & carefully drill through into the brickwork behind. The holes have to be clean, so get something like a large straw & blow out any dust. Squeeze in plenty of resin & push the studs in all the way. Immediately put the rad brackets over the studs with a little bit of the resin to hold the bracket to the wall, or screw a batten of wood under the bracket to make sure they are level. "Hang your rad" I wouldn't hang a rad on just plaster board, remember that the rad will be at least half the weight again when filled with water.

 

Are you sure there is brickwork behind it...?

Listen, you'd have to be an elephant to remove the rad once fixed as I suggested. I know it's not perfect, but it should be more than good enough!

Enough already!

 

Hope this reply appears the way it should as a reply I wrote yesterday but didn't post keeps appearing and I have tried to delete it unsuccessfully so have edited it out ..

Perhaps OP could check if the wall is a stud partition wall or has a brick wall behind ..If the latter then I think my suggestion is his best way forward .If he can fit a radiator then fiting battens to a brick wall will be a doddle ...lol

 

Nearly every rad I fix onto plasterboard walls is just done with hollow wall anchors and pink grip, a variation on Devils suggestion. They won't ever come off the wall.