Fitting new toilets

Swans neck pan connector should do it, or right angle flexi. The only prob with the former is that the toilet is fixed in one position, so depending on its dimensions, the cistern may or may not go flat back against the wall. The problem with the the latter is height from outlet to floor causing too tight a bend for the pipe.
Either way, one of those should sort it

 

You can get a space saving pan connect 'Mcalpine WC-CONQ' which can sometimes get you around the problem where cistern is too far from the wall, & allows you to move toilet further back.




http://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-...ng-pan-connector-white-110mm/23036?kpid=23036

 

Do a trial run with the swan-necks suggested by CGN and KIAB above, and then measure what - if any - gap you still have betwxit the cistern and the wall.

It looks as tho' you are doing fairly major work anyways, so to add a further layer of p'board - whether on thin stud spacings or not - wouldn't be a hassle to fill that gap.

Or, make it a feature - 'box-out' chust that lower section to a 'dado' height, and make it a ridge/shelf to sit nice wee things on.

So, measure the gap you have to deal with. You might find that if it's - ooh - around 3-4 inches, it might be a 'better' decision to box out that far and make a useful shelf instead of using a swan-neck and then boxing out - moving the whole wall out - chust a wee inch or so (unless space is at a premium).

Give the options some thought.

(When it comes to putting 'nice things' on the shelf, don't let your daughter do it...)

 

I like that paneling Dev.
Although, if it were me, I'd bring it out to meet the back of the toilet and meet the bottom of the cistern, then you won't see the pipe.
But not if you're going to wee all over it.

 

Nice work DA

 

Your middle picture - 221057 - looks like it could even be an older cast iron flange, which has some sort of filler/sealant to hold the plastic 'kwik-fit' pan connector. Is it cast iron or chust plastic?

Either way, it can be used as it is or even cut flush with the floor if you'd prefer - provided the new swan-neck (or whatevs) will reach down and go in to it a couple of inches at least.

The other two connectors are hard to ID until the pan connectors are removed.

By the 'pink' one, do you mean the one in the third pic? That looks to be specific for that pan, designed to match, so I'd expect you'd be removing that completely and using a newbie. Again, as a first step, you could cut it near-flush with the floor and then the new connector will go in to it - they have soft rubber gaskets which will cope with a large size difference. Anyhoo, once it's cut flush, you'll be able to look inside and see how far it goes, and how it connects to the deeper waste pipe - so could remove it fully too.

The swan-necked connector KIAB showed in post #3 is around 350 overall length, so that will tell you how far it'll go in to the existing pipe even if you were to cut it flush with the floor.

But, don't cut anything until you are sure it's what you want to do!

 

I hate exposed pipes, so was happy to hide the supply pipes and basin waste inside the panelling. However, what I dislike even more is obvious 'boxing in', so if I'd have taken the lower section out further to hide the pan connector, it would have been obvious why - and I wouldn't have liked it so much. So there

 

Fair e'nuff.

 

I do like it when someone accepts a telling orf


Doesn't happen very much on here...

 

Some dimensions.