I'm going to fit an outside tap. I really don't want to use the kits with the self cutting joins - my plumbing under the sink is easily isolated and it will be a doddle to insert a compression washing machine outlet valve or similar. I'm planning on drilling a 25mm hole through the external wall, lining it with 22mm copper pipe and threading one of these through. I'm guessing the tap simply connects to the end of the pipe? On the other end I just need one of these to hook up to my washing machine valve tee. Have I missed anything - is this a good plan? Thanks
Those tap fixing kits are pretty good, you will need some PTFE tape for the threads. No need to sleeve the pie a 16mm hole will suffice. On the other end yeah that will suffice although you could just cut in a compression tee, add a ballofix and then go onto the tube.
Whichever way you want to go, Tango. Mind you, your way seems to include two isolating valves (overkill) but no double-check valve (underkill...). The double-check, or non-return valve is to stop foul water being drawn back up the hose if the mains supply fails, and is a water reg requirement. If you were, say, filling your garden pond at the time of a mains water failure, your tadpoles could end up in your neighbour's sink.
Double-check valve for water: http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-double-check-valve/96336 If you then fit a washing machine valve tee in your cold supply ( http://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-tee-15mm-x-bsp/60723 ) then the wee bit of copper pipe you remove should hopefully be long enough to join the end of the flexi to the check valve, and the check valve will go straight on to the tap pipe's end. I have to agree with you - the 'hose' used in the tap kits looks a bit suspect, although I guess it must be ok? (I don't know where the check valve is in these kits - is it in the isolating tap?) Other wee hints? A few turns of PTFE tape or pipe jointing compound on the tap thread before fully tightening the pipe/flange on to it. Then insert the pipe through the wall, adding a goodly coating of mastic on the last couple of inches to make a good seal, and a further bead around the flange itself before tightening it up against the wall.
Used one of those taps here, one thing with they taps, they throws the water well forward I found & missed the gully. So, had to change it,for one of these. http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-hu-bib-tap-with-check-valve/11558
Cool. (What you really mean is, it kept wetting your feet... ) And Pegler is a top make. I notice this one has a check valve built in too, at only a squid more than Tango's original: http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-x-outside-tap-with-double-check-valve/37241 Makes life easier having it built in, no question.
Cheers guys, the Pegler tap is a good recommendation - think I'll run with that. The main reason I wanted to avoid the kits was the low flow rate I've heard you can get due to the hole size cut - the screwfix kit looks particularly bad with the narrow flexible pipe as well. The reason I wanted two isolating valves btw is because the tap is going to be exposed at the front of my property and kids could turn it on, so I want to turn it off inside except when I'm using it.
Got one of these for isolating water suppy for outside tap, it's full bore so no restriction with flow. http://www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore-lever-ball-valve-15mm/80413
OK - I've fitted everything as planned - but the hose union join to the tap leaks like crazy! I've used PTFE tape and screwed it up by hand as tight as I can - the end of the pipe is tight up against the tap back plate so no point using tools to try to get tighter. Should there be some kind of insert in there? Like a rubber washer? At the moment it's just metal screw into metal thread (+ the tape).
You can insert a fibre washer or two to get the tap at the right angle but you will need to tighten it with a spanner and grips handtight will never be enough to seal it
It's ok - I looked through the reviews on the tap on the SF site, and a couple recommended using LOTS of PTFE, so I put around 15 turns on and it's perfect! Thanks for all the advice - much appreciated!
I have a tap here and you need a fiber washer of min i/d 20.72mm (21mm). A 3/4" washer wont work, which has an o/d of 24mm and i/d of 19.91mm.
I'll have a look in the plumbers' merchan when I visit next time. 21mm i/d fibre washers are available on eBay, but they're around £4 each! I have only fitted about 5/6 garden taps. Once I just cut the washer. But wrapping PTFE tape around the thread in a clockwise directon has worked.
1/2” BSP . So, a washing hose washer would work, just look for Fibre Washers 1/2" BSP, overall size is about 3/4".
The rubber one fits on if its stretched over. I have a whole selection here , there are some which are 1.7mm thick and another which is 2.39mm thick, thinner one looks better. Strangely are 1/2" polythene washer fits on the tap, but the overall o/d is 38.62mm