Fitting shower base

Spellchecker might help, especially as far as silicone is concerned.

 

do you need advice?

 

There's usually self adhesive pads to stick the legs to the base Tore.

I sometimes make a frame out of 4x2, but also use the riser kits.
There should be an instruction book supplied showing you the layout of the legs for your particular tray.
I usually set the outer legs up to the height of the skirt, level the tray up, then wind down the inner legs to the floor. You'll prob need to do some tweaking and also need to take into account the thickness of any flooring going down regarding the skirt.
Once I'm happy they're set correctly, I'll reach under the tray and make a pencil mark around the feet and then carefully lift out the tray being careful not to disturb the legs. I'll then put a blob of silicon where the feet go and silicon the sides of the tray. Lift back in and settle it down, then check levels again. A bit fiddly, but pretty much like adjusting kitchen base units. The floor must be solid and not flex...I usually put down minimum 18mm wbp ply. Once the silicon has set, it'll be rock solid

 

You need to make sure it's not a rocker. By standing with a foot in each corner and shift your weight some trays rock breaking seal. Timber frame around edge can stop this. Depends if you have solid walls to fix timer to. Best answer above though. Just make it solid.

 

If the floor is solid bed it on cement,

Use CT-1 on the trap seals and where it tightens into the tray as you don't want it leaking, you can still clean the trap out from removing the centre piece from above

 

Is it a stone resin tray?

Anyway, yes, more modern and sleek to fit directly on the floor. Two considerations are routing the waste pipe with regards to joists and getting adequate fall and access to the trap.

Can you get a 40mm waste to your soil pipe without going through a joist? If you can, then great and use solvent weld pipe and fittings. Use a good quality trap such as a MacAlpine that allows top access to clear out any crud if it gets blocked.
Most manufacturers recommend bedding the tray down on to a sand and cement mix. You have to be careful to get this right as it can be prone to cracking or not adhering to the ply. Use SBR to prime ply and underside of tray.

Anyway, place tray down on ply, mark around waste hole. Remove tray, and measure flange on trap. Make sure you cut the hole in the ply a bit bigger than this measurement to make sure the trap doesn't catch on the flooring. You may also need to cut out a slot to prevent the outlet catching(see photo). Depending on flooring and which way your waste is running, you may be able to fit trap and pipe up after fitting the tray, if not you need to align the trap and support it (allowing some movement) so you can screw the top collar into it after fitting the tray.

 

You need to make sure it's supported well. IMO, it's harder to fit on the deck than using a rider kit but pros and cons to both.

With a shallow trap, there is t much clearance between the bottom of the tray and the nut on the outlet, so when allowing for the thickness of the cement base, you'll find it catches the ply unless you slot it.

Can you confirm what your tray is made of? If it's fibreglass and came with legs and doesn't have a removable skirt then it prob isn't suitable for fixing direct to the floor with cement. Most low profile trays are only about 40mm.

 

Looks fine for floor mounting Tore. Get it in place and see how level it is before you start thinking of how to stick it down. You can use a bed of tile adhesive instead of cement...easier to work with!

 

Depends where your trap is situated in relation to the tray Tore. In the pic I showed, my only option was to do it like that due to how the waste ran. That's why you need some room to jiggle the trap. You must do a dry run first and make sure that whatever thickness of 'adhesive' you put under the tray, the trap and pipework can also move up that amount. If you can Get access to the waste hole after the tray goes down then perfect, fit the trap as a separate operation. This can sometimes be achieved by taking up some floor in an adjacent room, but all depends on layout etc.
I always put a bead of silicon on the trap as I never want to touch the trap again once fitted for the life of the bathroom

 

timber frame would be my recomendation

 

Unbelievable

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Different and what a mountain mole hill