Fitting used UPVC

nothing wrong there - but you should remember why most units get replaced (they fail)

I've just pulled out 20 perfectly decent 28mm UPVC windows to replace them with 44mm HW and the originals have found a good home, so you might find someone upgrading rather than replacing due to failure.

 

Corky, will a series of 2nd-hand units match? Unless you can get a job-lot as mentioned above, then take care.

Anyways, lots of d-g companies out there desperate for business. Call out a half-dozen of the regulars, get them to measure up, sit through the spiel, but get ready to say "We have visitors coming - you now need to leave..." when it gets too much.

Then sit back as they all call you up for the next 4 weeks with better and better quotes, each one under-cutting the opposition.

Just answer the phone with "We've looked at our finances, and we simply cannot afford it for a year or so. No, we never do 'credit' or monthly repayments - we only buy what we can afford at the time. Our best quote so far was £xxx (which keeps falling), but I'm afraid that's still too much - sorry, but goodbye."

It may be cheaper than you think.

 

another option is the mis-measures - DG companies tend to have a pile of new units that have been made over sized

 

In that case just keep an eye out for good 2nd-hand, Corky. Local sources - papers, Gumtree, Vivastreet, eBay, etc.

You'd have to be really lucky to find sizes to fit, tho'.

 

you will need to get building control to pass them at your cost
so make sure they comply with the present regs or they wont pass

 

(Or don't tell them...)

Usually you allow around 5mm clearance, Corky, just to make it easy to fit. Frame fixings are then drilled through into the blockwork, with packing pieces making sure the frames aren't distorted when tightened up, and also that the frames are sitting square to begin with.

In theory you can have much larger gaps, but you'd need larger packing pieces - or a timber frame - and then you'd need to fill the space with something like expanding foam (I understand you can even get some that will double as a frame fixing), and then you'd need to hide the gap at the front by using PVC mouldings or strips.

Really not satisfactory.

Just how bad are you current windows? Are they rotting timber framed? Single glazed? If not - if they are a just old PVC double-glazed windows with perhaps some blown glazing units and slightly draughty seals - then don't expect a world of improvement when you fit new ones.

'Blown' double-glazing units still 'work' - they just look pants. A wee draught from a damaged rubber gasket can be sealed with silicone (if a 'fixed' unit) or by adding some stick-on foam seal (if opening).

Are you sure your poor insulation isn't caused by something else? Draughty floorboards etc?

 

unless you live in a conservation or area, or if your building is listed - you won't need PP to change your windows - just do it, but make sure you are aware of the regulations with regard to means of escape and toughened glass if the window is low and large.

if you don't plan to sell the house soon and just want to benefit from the thermal improvements from your ''new'' windows - just do it, if you've got old rotted timber single glazed, or those nice but cold steel framed Crittall windows, fitting almost any DG window will be beneficial - you'll do well to find any used windows that meets the required 1.5 W/m2.K????? U value

but - when you do come to sell it's almost certain that you will be asked to produce evidence of them having been installed by a registered firm or that you'd had them signed off by your councils building control department - but maybe your plan is to save up in years to come and have some brand one ones fitted ?

 

indeed you can, and very good it is, just don't get it on skin - this great stuff for example - for some reason SF have it for sale at twice the price as elsewhere

 

good luck with your project - 5mm clearance is quite tight, and doesn't leave much in the event of the opening not being completely square so if you can find windows that are 30mm under sized (15mm gap all around) they'll be fine

also consider using a thin layer of good quality rigid insulation internally underneath the window reveals as there's always a cold bridge due to the position of the cavity - this will make a massive difference

 

put your approx sizes on here

 

Yeah, but you got no window frame left.

And if that's the outer brickleaf we can see, you window is not inside the outer edge of the brickwork.

What's going on there?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GEOCEL-Gr...580?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58a9166a64

sorry SF

 

why would you want or need to have all of the frame on view ?

what would you prefer, an insulated reveal or lots of UPVC on show ?