Fix oak beam to concrete chimney brest

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Jay459, Sep 21, 2016.

  1. Jay459

    Jay459 Member

    I want to fit a 8x3 inch oak beam to my concrete brest wall. I don't want to drill through it and plug it as want it to be removable.

    Looking a decent set of brackets as I'm sure it will be leafy. It's 5ft long 8x3 inch. Not sue of the weight as it's not heavy

    Can anyone recommend a decent set of brackets, want the beam to be floating with invisible mounts
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Use concealed floating mantel brackets, & I also put a few dabs gripfill on back of lintel, to secure mantle to wall.

    upload_2016-9-21_8-53-24.jpeg
     
  3. Hi Jay.

    First remove all the leaves from the beam.

    Now, will it be attached with a 3" projection and 8" height, or vikky verka?

    Either way, the brackets shown by our resident genius KIAB (no envy intended or implied) is the best way to go.

    Obviously, for a 3" projection, they'll probably need trimming down a tad.

    Try and drill the receiving holes in the beam snuggly, but if it's loose so's the beam flops down a bit, then chust apply a goodly amount of solvent-free (or whatevs) adhesive in to the holes before pushing the beam into place, and supporting/bracing it tightly against the breast for a good day or so.

    No need to fill the holes with adhesive - chust enough to coat most/part of the bracket prong and fill the 'loose' gap.
     
  4. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select


    Depending on the type of Oak and the moisture content you are looking at around 20kg - depending on which is the Horizontal, the 3" or 8" you could have a significant force on any fixings and will need to ensure they are adequate.
     
  5. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Could fit a pair of corbels to oak beam, either oak or metal, to give abit more support.

    And the concealed floating mantel brackets come in diffent lengths, & several styles.
    You could get a local metal working palace, smithy to knock one up for a few quid.

    Had a local smithy do a lambs tongue on a handrail a few months ago, cost a tenner.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2016
  6. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    It is more the actual fixings into the chimney breast that I would be concerned about. They need to be deep enough but not too deep to break through, use decent tight fitting plugs and screws ensuring they are not in soft mortar.
     
  7. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    I would use coach screws 8x60mm (Turbo coach screws from our host, are very good) to secure bracket, easy to make recess in beam for the heads to sit in.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Are those with "cutting" type threads? The Turbo Gold screws I have here certainly are. In a conversation with Fischer a few years back they advised against using "Cutter" screws in their plugs - they rip them apart and to stay with ordinary wood screw type threads.
     
  9. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

  10. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Multimonti's/Thunderbolts for fixing the bracket to the wall.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  11. neibick76

    neibick76 Member

    I used a screw in anchor point when i have dine my floating shelves railway sleeper style. And are solid. Can even sit on it I guess
     
  12. Jay459

    Jay459 Member

    Ive used the exact brackets from KIAB in the second post. The beam has just been mounted on my chimney brest wall. It is perfectly level and also perfectly centred within the brest wall..

    But the bloody thing won't push tight in against wall. The beam is 5ft long and 8 inches by 3.5 inches. I have it mounted so that its 8 inches in height as its not a mantle so won't have to take any load. I had the brackets cut down to 70mm long.

    I have also rebated the beam at the back so the brackets sit in flush. Have been rebating it out further for the past hour and drilling in as deep as i can but the thing still won't push in tight..

    The diameter of the bracket rod is 12mm. I first drilled an 11.5mm hole and then 12mm as was too tight. Maybe i should drill it wider but i know the beam will then sag
     
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Have you cut a recess for fixing bracket base plate & screws in beam, otherwise beam will not sit flush against wall.
     
  14. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    You should check that the holes in the wood are drilled square and that the bracket pole comes out of the wall square. You might need to slightly angle up the wall bracket.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  15. If the wall or the beam has even a little bit of a bow or concave it will not push fully back.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  16. Jay459

    Jay459 Member

    Yea it really is looking like the wall is not level. My house is new build so should I complain to builder...lol
     

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