Fixing a Ceiling Hole

Just use a multi finish plaster, it will take week, maybe slightly less to throughly dry, will be pale pink when dry, first coat of emulsion should be a mist coat, 10% water added, matt emulsion works best for mist coat.

 

What's that stuff up above the board?

Anyhoo, it's best if you can cut the old board back to half-way along the joists so that the edge of the old piece can be screwed to this as well as the edges of the new piece.

However, there will also be an unsupported join at right angles to the joists. How to join the new board to this by either adding a noggin (a bit tricky to access) or else by using a further bit of board to act as a 'bridge'.

So, cut away the old board neatly and secure the edges on the joists by adding a few more p'board screws/nails. Then clean the surface above that old board for a good few inches, cut neatly-fitting sections of board to sit up on top, with one half sitting on the old board, and t'other half sticking out over the opening so's the new board can contact it.

Does that make sense?

Coool.

Ok, stick these overlapping board pieces to the top of the old boards using a good dollop of PVA, making sure it's making decent surface contact (shoggle it around so's it does, and then place a weight on top to hold it in contact).

Once set, you can then fit the replacement board in place, screwing it to all the available joists and PVAing it to the overlap boards.

Allow to dry.

To skim, first bevel the edges of the old boards so's there's no sticky-up bits. Then brush PVA into the gaps all around the perimeter, including the exposed edges of the plaster in the middle.

Wipe off - with a damp cloth - any PVA that's on the ceiling surface, and start to trowel on your skim (use either Thistle board finish or something like 'patching' plaster. Don't use 'bonding'...)

Apply a thin skim to all of the new board and also forcing it right into the perimeter gaps. This can be quite rough. Scrape off any that's on the ceiling surface surrounding it.

Then apply a second layer to bring it up to the ceiling surface level, and judge this level by scraping the trowel half on the actual ceiling surface - that's your guide.

Once you are happy it's pretty much filled, allow the plaster to begin to set - it'll become stiff and Plasticene-like. You'll now be able to smooth it off better, and apply more pressure to it with the trowel. Hold the blade at higher angles - around 45o now - and you'll be scraping off any excess skim to get it to the correct level.

As it sets further, sprinkle a bit of water on it, and scrape scrape scrape using the surrounding ceiling surface as your guide. You should have removed any skim that's actually on the surrounding ceiling part by now, and the skim on the new board should be at this same level.

Don't worry if it doesn't go too well - once it's fully dry you can sand it any which way you need to, or - after it's had a priming coat of emulsion - even use fine-surface filler to fill any gaps or hollows.

 

Unless your competent at this, get it repaired by a tradesman.

 

Piff and piddle...

Rbr, you can do this. Get orn with it

 

Yes like DA says cut out out back to the joist. You could also cut the board that's going to go in say 500x500 then trace round the new board fits perfectly then I would

I haven't done it on a ceiling but I would be tempted to tape and joint.

Then feather out and sand back. Jointing compound is really easy to use. Less skill.

Anyhow good luck