Fixing a cupboard to a wall (some concerns)

The main problem here is what the akshull wall is made of. Any idea? Is it solid, or can you get to a good secure stud fixing if not?

Anyways, if you want a simple secure fixing, your own first choice is that - I presume there is a suitable recess in the back behind the panel? Cut your 2x1 to fit snugly, screw into it at least three times through the top and bottom panels, and a screw through the side (yep, into the end grain...) for good measure.

Then screw right through into the wall, a couple of screws (if the wall construction allows).

If you have only one wall stud to fix to, then this method at least allows you to place the strongest fixing screw where it's needed. Fix through both rails, and use a size 12 at least in this case. For the rest of the battens, you will need to fasten to the p'bpard using suitable fixings.

What I have tended to do with this type of fixing is to mount the battens on the wall first; position the unit on the wall, get it exactly level, mark the exact top and bottom and sides on the wall, remove unit, double-check these marks, draw horizontal lines inside these marks the thickness of the top, bottom and side panels (and add an extra mm to each for clearnace), cut the two battens to fit on these lines, drill and screw through the battens into the wall, and even add a goodly smear of PVA before final tightening down.

The unit then has at least three screw holes drilled along its back on the top and bottom panels around 20mm out and at a slight angle, and a hole through the sides for good measure. These are all countersunk, and the unit is placed over the two battens and secured with 1.5" size 8s.

(If it's a permanent fix, there is no harm in PVAing the battens to the wall to as you tighten up the screws too - that will prevent any possible movement in use, and it's such movement that slackens most fixings.)

Your alternative method is fine if the wall is solid so that you can fasten these mounting brackets where you need. They do have the advantage of being adjustable, but it's no hardship getting the other method level either.

 

The concealed cabinet hangers you link to would do the job Welshy. As for fixing the back plate to the wall I reckon a 7mm drill and 3" (75mm) No 8 screws will hold (as your drilling deep enough into the brick behind the d&d plasterboard.

 

JJ suggests a No8 screw. I must admit that I would use something bigger dia such as a 5/5,5mm screw in a 7mm /brown plug.

 

Dot an' Dab at least allows you to position the fixings wherever you want, unlike 'stud' which restricts you to the, er, studs.

The fixings you link to above should certainly be ok, although I note that one review suggests you need a full 20mm recess behind the back panel. Mind you, my 2x1 suggestion would need that too...

With wall cabinets, yes there will be a 'pivoting' force which is trying to pull these fixings out from the wall, but by far the greatest force is simply a downwards acting one. The advantage of a couple of battens is that both forces are shared betwixt top and bottom.

Many moons ago when I was a kitchen fitter, and where most of the walls we mounted to were 'stud', fixing a couple of 2x1 battens was by far the best solution as it kept everything dead level, allowed fixing to studs wherever they were positioned, and was also a very quick method; all the wall units had a 2x1-sized cut-out made in their sides, top and bottom (except the end ones, of course), and we'd pre-drill the fixing screw holes along the top and bottom panel edges. Then it was chust plop them on and screw them down.

They never ever moved.

A potential drawback with D&D is if there's a significant gap betwixt the board and brick which can allow the board to be pulled in when tightening the brackets screws. Not much you can do about this other than somehow filling in behind the board (a pain), but I would suggest that battens would be better at sharing this load over a greater area so less likely to be pulled in.

Also, as I mentioned before, PVA the battens to the wall when you finally screw them in place. This isn't so much to increase the strength of the fixings (tho' it will) but to prevent any future movement. Believe me, it's 'movement' - regardless of how small - that ultimately slackens a wall fixing and causes problems.

When it comes to the other unit which will be on a stud wall, your options are seriously limited, so I reckon 'battens' may be your only viable choice (although you can get long lengths of metal rail which does the same thing.)

Remember, these battens will be completely hidden once fitted, with only a row of screw heads visible along the back of the top and bottom panels. Screw cap covers will do the job there.

How much gap is there behind the p'board before the brick wall?

 

These Fischers are clearly much more substantial, and probably easier to use too having hex nuts on them. You will need to check that the sticky-out heads won;t interfere with anything, tho'.

 

Must admit that I have used 7mm Fischer Nylon plugs & have found them great. Not available from our hosts, but available from the next sation.

 

Sorry. Correction...Should say "station". Spelling's all to pot after a few Kronenburgs.

 

OMG. I'm retired now. I really ain't gonna plough through that. I can only tell you what I have found that works !

 

You know the back panel of the unit? Is it fitted right at the very back (pinned on the outside) or is it recessed in an inch or so from the very back like most units? That's what I mean by the 20mm recess, and that's where the battens would sit nicely (I remember having to resort to a slightly thinner skirting board instead of 2x1 battens with one type of unit which had a slimmer recess gap.)

Making a frame is overkill, in my view. Having said that, I would put a screw in through the unit sides and into the centre of the 2x1 as well so that the unit sides are also supported by these battens, otherwise it's chust the top and bottom panels (tho' that should be enough...)

The actual mounting brackets that comes with most wall units only hold the unit by their sides, up in the top/back corners. This is clearly enough to do the job, so by having 2 battens - one top and one bottom - you should be much better off.

I wouldn't worry about having to pack behind the p'board - the chances are that it will be packed somewhere along the width of the unit. That's another reason why battens are better - they spread the load along the full width rather than where the two small bracket mounts are located.

Really - if you can get at least two good plugs/screws into that brickwork (ideally 3 on each batten - ok, 4 for good measure...) along with a PVAing, that unit ain't coming ofski.

 

In that case your 'batten' options are either to have the battens visible inside the unit, or else fit the unit sans back panel, and then trim the panel and refit it inside the unit, pinned to the battens to cover them.

 

You crazy fool, you...

 

Er, I mean, 'good call' man...