Fixing Radiators to dry line walls

you can fix with wall plugs and 3 inch screws, drill throu to the brick at the back, then put the plug in the hole and useing the screw tap the plug throu the plaster board and into the brick,
If you mean a 'studded wall' ( plaster on wooden frame), cut out a square of plaster which will be hidden by the radiator, put some wooden noggings between the upright wooden studding, replace your square of plasterboard, and srew you rad brackets to the noggins

 

You will need a cavity fixing such as Rawlplug Interset as provided by our host at http://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-interset-m4-x-40-pack-of-20/54782#
You just need to ensure to get the size that matches the thickness of your pb.

Hope that helps
Dave
http://www.thediyworld.co.uk
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Pj. Rads are heavy. And they do tend to get bumped in to and stuff.

Do what Mr Plum says if you can. A more-crude version has the batten running along the front of the p'board where they'll be largely hidden by the rads - that way you are fixing to the actual studs - the best way. Often bracket can be fitted two ways to give two different depths, so you could use the shallower depth so's it compensates for the battens.

If you must just fix to the p'board, then Pc's suggestion is the best of the bunch. But, really, try and use the studs or the brickwork behind.

 

He posted this twice DA and tom I just answered the other one.

 

Thanks, Peter.

And reading his other post, it looks as tho' I got t'wrong end of t'stick above...

Pj, do your p'board sheets have solid brick walls behind them? If so, all you need are fixings for - er - solid brick walls.

The ones you, yourself, linked to in your other post look absolutely ideal tho' - they can be set to finish at the depth of the p'board surface, so's the actual fixing screws - wot hold the bracket - don't get pulled in any further.

Ideal.

Do SF do fixings like this? If not - they should...

 

Have a look at DrylinePro fixings. Perfect for radiators on dry lined walls.  They will certainly do your job and I make no excuses for posting here as the inventor of these fixings.
Richard

 

I made a video about using wood to bridge this gap:

 

Cracking video. Nice oirish cove too.

Hmmm, looking for faults...

Um...er...uh....

Got one!

See the 'taping of the drill' bit thingy? Best if you drill deeper than the plug. That allows the plug to go slightly below surface level (less likely to crack the surface when screw goes in), and also ensures screws don't 'bottom-out'.

Maaaan, can't believe you missed that one. That's a biggie. A real blooper.

Tsk, amateurs...

 

( puts hand up ) please sir, i've found a fault too, reluctant as I am to nit pick at helpful folks making video's to inform and help others, but this is a biggie too, but its probably not obitaal's fault as he's not familiar with my theory of stiction,
If you imagine the brakes on a car causing the car to slow down and stop using friction, then stiction is the hand brake, holding the car to keep it stopped,
appling that theory of stiction to the rad brackets, the two screws are holding the surface area of the bracket tight up to the surface area of the plasterboard, as long as they are sqeezed together they will not move provided the plasterboard is not compromised in any way, and cutting inch holes top and bottom will allow the plasterboard 'breathing room' and the stiction will be broken, the rad brackets will remain in place, probably, but they will be relying totally on the tensile strenght of the screw, and not the time tested unbreakable adhesion of stiction,

a test to prove a bracket held by stiction,
take of a long been in place rad, undo the screws to the rad bracket and see if it falls, in most cases you need to break the stiction by tapping with a hammer or prizing off with a flat screwdriver,

 

Awesome point, Mr Plum (nodding head in agreement...)

So our oirish friend should shave off a couple of extra mm from the broom handle spacer so's the brackets are kept in tight contact with the wall surface. Bonding will then occur at molecular level and this will increase over time.

One should never underestimate the power of atomic attraction.


Hmm, only two major gloopies, then? This Orbitaal guy is a pro

 

Orbitaal's video camera has a superior microphone (compared to Tomp's) too. I dunna have to turn the volume on me computer up to 150% to hear him.

 

(I hope Orbitaal isn't taking my chain-yanking seriously... )

 

Probably is DA, He'll be round tomorrow offering to tarmac yer drive.

 

...with me underneath it.

 

don't worry I'm sure he's worked out about our trip over the Irish sea to kiss the Blarney stone,

When the geography teech at ourt skool asked me where the Irish sea was, I said, its between the Irish B and the Irish D,


taxi,,,,,,