Greetings Googling around found these PDFs about shiplap http://www.shiplap.com.au/ Shiplap%20Spec%20Sep09%20rev2.pdf and http://www.rmfp.com/ RMFPPDFS/siding.pdf However data from outside the UK is not always the best so apart from the fact I do not nail through adjacent boards with the same nail AND leave a horizontal gap of 3mm between adjacent sheets (to allow shrinkage/swelling WHAT should I put behind the shiplap to improve its performance with respect to the inside of the structure, is there a building sheet or something I can use? The shiplap is going over the open ends of a trussed roof garage on battens at 600mm centres
assuming your talking 5" t&g shiplap the gap depends on the water content if you leave a 3mm gap on a bit off wood with say 20% moisture content on a hot and sunny day it could shrink and detach cut off a 1 metres sample from the end and leave it in the hallway fo a couple off weeks then thats your sample size 5" t&g covers around 106mm so if its at 108 you leave a 1mm gap 109 no gap 110 as tight as you can get it only one fixing across the width idealy the bottom 1/3 of the plank 5" is cheaper per square metres compared to 6" by around 20% and more stable big all
Dr Bullas. (bubble of water). I have a strong feeling you are the gentleman whose web site I read a couple of years ago. If so very informative, if not my apologies for mistake. If you are bubble of water, then your views of cladding will be scientific, where as ours are, git er up, and git er home. The web sites you have been reading are Canadian or American, and to get shiplap out of radial sawn logs in this country would be far more expensive than tangential boards Keep in mind that movement along the tangential axis is almost always going to be greater than along the radial direction. In a nut shell minimum shrinkage along the board possible excessive shrinkage across the board depending how it has been milled. I do not wish to contradict big all in any way, just to add that we normally mitre our joints on a stud to disguise possible movement, place timber in side of garage for a week to ten days to acclimatise, try to buy treated timber, either prime or stain all four edges before fixing. Regards to sheathing, not required, however providing no insulation in studs standard building paper will improve performance. Have you thought abour UVPC shiplap. No shrinkage, no maintenance. Unless up close, hard to tell it is not wood. Hope helps. old un.
heeelllooo old un again probably my bad description its refering to theis form off construction http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/bigall2005/?action=view¤t=e1e47346.pbw big all we are all------ still learning
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