floating oak shelves

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Porkie, Oct 4, 2008.

  1. Porkie

    Porkie New Member

    Hi all

    a customer wants me to make some 1 1/4" thick floating solid-oak shelves for them of the follwing sizes...

    37cm square corner shelves

    120cm x 30cm along one supporting wall

    100cm x 37cm inside alcoves

    All the walls are solid outside walls and not weak dividing ones if that makes sense

    I said that the 1m shelves would need brackets as they will be holding books. Does anyone have any drawings of supports I could make or advice as they want them made from oak? I can only think of 'gallows' brackets!?

    How about the others as they wont be carrying much weight....apart from the finished wood itself and not much else? How would i make them floating? Run a shoulder into each shelf and then attach strips onto wall to fit the shoulder nice and snug and screw in from underneath?

    Cheers in advance
  2. king blaze

    king blaze New Member

    what i have done before is 12mm studding and then resin it into the wall level then drill the back of the shelf out then resin the shelf to the studs. if that makes sense.
  3. cabinet

    cabinet New Member

    Follow this link on Floating Shelf

    Storage shelf with concealed brackets thus giving the appearance of floating. When I have the need to produce floating shelves I have the metal brackets custom made and that is what is shown in the drawings.
    It is realised that not every one as the contacts to produce bespoke metal work therefore I have included the names of suppliers that produce alternative metal work.

    Concealed Shelf Support

    www.sdslondon.co.uk

    www.hafele.co.uk
  4. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    As King says for the fully floating shelf resin bond 12mm studs into the wall, these will hold better than plugs & screws that the propriotary brackets use.Like this and the next two pictures

    For the corner ones I route a 12x12 groove in the two edges that stops short of the exposed end/side. Then screw 12x10 strips of hardwood onto th etwo walls then just slide the shelf on with a bit of glue to keep it in place, that way no fixings can be seen. Something like this and this

    Jason
  5. Porkie

    Porkie New Member

    cheers for all that.

    The problem with the brackets is the customer wants solid oak to be used so think the best bet is to use the method of studs fixed with resin into the walls and then the back of the shelf. How much weight would this be able too take though as I have 1m wide shelfs needed to hold some big books.

    Cheers again
  6. Measure2cut1

    Measure2cut1 New Member

    Jason,

    I never cease to be inspired and amazed by your craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing once again.

    M2C1
  7. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    If you use 4 studs in a 1m long shelf it will hold a lot of weight, even on a 300mm wide shelf the forces will only be acting at a max of 150mm from the wall.

    The main thing is to ensure you get the studs well into the wall, at least 100mm will ensure they are nice and rigid, fix with one of the resin anchor cartridges that Screwfix etc sell.

    Jason
  8. Porkie

    Porkie New Member

    Hi Jason

    don't suppose you could be a bit more specific about the actual rods and resin that I should use and how to use them.

    Sorry, feel a bit thick now

    Cheers
  9. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    The ones in my pic were actually R12 reinforcing bar as I had some laying about.

    But the easiest option is to get some 300mm lengths of threaded rod (studding)Screwfix no 52679, think there is 5 in a pack and for the resin use SF No 25733 will do as there is no great pull out load & the 150mls cartridge will fit a standard mastic gun. One tube will be ample

    You drill a 14mm hole in the wall, clean out the dust, squirt in a bit of resin then poke the stud in and jiggle it about to get a good bond. Once all studs are in put a bit of resin or gripfill into the shelf holes and slide the shelf onto the studs all before the resin sets hard as this allows you to slightly adjust the studs so they fit the holes. A dry fit first may be a good idea to make sure the holes all line up and make sure you scribe the shelf to the wall beforehand.

    Have a look on the Fisher fixings web site as I'm sure it gives a step by step guide for using the resin

    Jason
  10. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    should just add that you want a blind hole in the wall, eg if its a cavity wall don't drill right through to the cavity as all the resin will get pushed out teh back when you put the rod in, it should be forced all around the sides of the rod. Same goes for partitions as no one likes resin running down their walls!!

    J
  11. malkie129

    malkie129 Well-Known Member

    Hi Jason. I'm not a chippie, but I was impressed with the pics of your shelves. Very nice ! It's good to know there are still craftsmen about, whatever trade. :)
  12. Porkie

    Porkie New Member

    ok, the cost of solid oak shelves is far too much for the customer ( i did tell them it would be well over a grand) so think i'm going to veneered MDF.

    Some of the the shelves will be in the bathroom.....what should a 'seal' them with?

    cheers for all the help, has been great :)
  13. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    I use a water bourne lacquer, something like dulux diamondglaze or even screwfixes aqualac will do but it does come out a bit glossy. Don't neglect to seal the back edges as well

    Jason

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