gravity fed heating system - check valve

Convert it to fully pumped. Quicker and more efficient.

 

Get a Plumber to fit a new check valve,approx £100.00 then seek advice about converting your gravity system to one thats pumped,obviously cost a lot more to do this.HTH

 

Thanks v much for your response. I'm a bit of a
novice to say the least!! What does that mean
exactly? Do I need an alternative pump to the check
valve? And will that make getting hot water
quicker/better?

The best way is to fit another pump on the flow or return to the cylinder and have a check valve in front of each pump. A cylinder stat and a probably a small cheap electric relay (£5 from Maplin) will need to be fitted in a plastic box adjacent. Then the programmer will need to be set to accept fully pumped and independent DHW and CH. The cylinder will reheat in a fraction of the time.

Best go that route, unless you intend to replace the boiler soon.

 

Thanks v much for your response. I'm a bit of a
novice to say the least!! What does that mean
exactly? Do I need an alternative pump to the
check
valve? And will that make getting hot water
quicker/better?

The best way is to fit another pump on the flow or
return to the cylinder and have a check valve in
front of each pump. A cylinder stat and a probably a
small cheap electric relay (£5 from Maplin) will need
to be fitted in a plastic box adjacent. Then the
programmer will need to be set to accept fully pumped
and independent DHW and CH. The cylinder will reheat
in a fraction of the time.

Best go that route, unless you intend to replace the
boiler soon.

And where would he place the pump on the flow of the cylinder?

 

What happens when the check valve sticks shut on the flow of a gravity system?

 

HB,nurmerous options here - (basic) either fit a dumb ball valve on heating flow at boiler, or a good quality gate valve on heating flow manually operated,or fit a 2port zone valve on heating flow,or add to any of the mentioned options a honeywell C plan ie- motorised valve on primary flow plus thermastat on cylinder,or convert to fully pumped honeywell S plan ie- 2 motorised valves,cylinder stat,room stat.If you are happy with system as it is apart from the thermal syphonage to upstairs rads go for 1 of the first 3 options.

Don"t consider what Water Systems mentions you don"t need 2 pumps ;(

 

or just leave it as it is

 

or just leave it as it is

and turn off the radiator valves!!
Martin

 

Ooh er, thanks Martin

 

You could always fit TRV's, they are a bit easier to turn on and off and you can leave them on a low setting so they only come on when cold...or upgrade as advised.

 

HB,

Is it gravity fed in the term of F&E tank in the the attic meaning vented system or gravity circulation..F*ck me it must be old.

By the way, do not under any circumstance take advice from WS, as you can see most guy's on here will give a practical cheap solution to your problem. Althoug, are a bit vague on sytem type.

Where as WS is talking about relays from maplin..F*ck me what a tool.

Just proves he's literature spouting tube with no practical nouse at all. Relay's are generally only used to switch high loads from a small control voltage or by placing an earth on the relay as in aircraft cockpit switching. I would suggest not standard in many home heating installations.

 

Thanks v much for your response. I'm a bit of a
novice to say the least!! What does that mean
exactly? Do I need an alternative pump to the
check
valve? And will that make getting hot water
quicker/better?

The best way is to fit another pump on the flow or
return to the cylinder and have a check valve in
front of each pump. A cylinder stat and a probably
a
small cheap electric relay (£5 from Maplin) will
need
to be fitted in a plastic box adjacent. Then the
programmer will need to be set to accept fully
pumped
and independent DHW and CH. The cylinder will
reheat
in a fraction of the time.

Best go that route, unless you intend to replace
the
boiler soon.

And where would he place the pump on the flow of
the cylinder?

Do you know? Or don't you know?

 

Where as WS is talking about relays from maplin..F*ck
me what a tool.

Just proves he's literature spouting tube with no
practical nouse at all. Relay's are generally only
used to switch high loads from a small control
voltage or by placing an earth on the relay as in
aircraft cockpit switching. I would suggest not
standard in many home heating installations.
Drayton used to market the RB1 and RB2 which were single and double relays respectively. They were used to switch boilers, valves and pumps from a common source, eg s frost or pump overun stat without getting a back feed and switching everything else on. Nowadays, end switches in valves have largely made them redundant.
Martin

 

Where as WS is talking
about relays from maplin..F*ck
me what a tool.

Do you mean Maplin do not sell relays

Just proves he's literature spouting tube with no
practical nouse at all. Relay's are generally only
used to switch high loads from a small control
voltage or by placing an earth on the relay as in
aircraft cockpit switching. I would suggest not
standard in many home heating installations.

You clearly have not got a clue.

Drayton used to market the RB1 and RB2 which were
single and double relays respectively. They were used
to switch boilers, valves and pumps from a common
source, eg s frost or pump overun stat without
getting a back feed and switching everything else on.
Nowadays, end switches in valves have largely made
them redundant.
Martin

Are they still available? However if you want a two pump system a relay invariably has to be used. Maplin sell them inc base for around £5. Just fit them in a plastic electric box on the wall. I always bought two and put one in the box as a spare, if the relay burnt out plug one in and out. This sort of thing baffles plumbers, but second nature to heating men.

 

The Drayton RB1 relay and box is ....£54. Wow!!!!! You can knock one up for around £10 in minutes with parts from Maplin.

 

Where as WS is talking about relays from maplin..F*ck
me what a tool.

This plumbelec man is totally mad. He should stick to drains.

 

Hungry bunny,Just read my post they are the options from basic (which is the type of system you have) to a modern fully pumped system.Your choice.