Handsaw binding Stanley FatMax Fine Finish

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by spaarks, Dec 30, 2014.

  1. spaarks

    spaarks New Member

    Just bought this 11tpi and it's doin my heed in. It binds when cutting 2x1, anything thicker than 1/2". The wood is dry good quality par softwood.
    I'm no cabinetmaker but I've had quite a few saws and NONE does this at all. Bought the FatMax to replace a finecut Bahco - now blunt due to cutting nails!.
    Sawing a bit of wood isn't exactly rocket science, so what's up? Anyone out there using this saw?
    Thanks.
     
  2. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    If it just random 2" x 1" sawn cut timber, I recon your Using too fine a pitch on the fat max, 11tpi is more suited to thinner denser timber.​
     
    FatHands likes this.
  3. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Never been a fan of Stanley saws but it shouldn't bind. Try sawing at a shallower angle on a solid surface and rub the blade with candle wax.
     
  4. barnjules

    barnjules Member

    Hi,that's interesting,as i recently got me a 3 pack of cheapo stanley saws... I dont like them! They tend to "bind" if i saw too hard, by bending too easily,as the steel blade seems to be thinner than normal.
    As joiner said, some candle wax will help :)
     
  5. malkie129

    malkie129 Screwfix Select

    I was going to mention candle wax, but thought I'd let a real chippie say it. I'll stick with my trusty Bahco....As an aside, I have a S&J Preditor saw with a built-in lazer ! Why? I really don't know, apart from the fact at only a fiver, it was cheaper in B&Q that the ones without. :D I've never used the lazer, but it's an 11 tpi saw and cuts ply sheets really well. :)
     
  6. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Forget messing about with candle wax and use the right saw, 11 tpi is perfect for sheet material, for general cutting of softwood you need a 7 tpi saw, it is 2015 nearly not the 1950s where one saw had to do it all. :p:p
     
  7. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    You wander offline just a tad with a finetooth, it'll bind as you try to straighten it!

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  8. I dont buy stanley saws as like others have said have never heard a good word about them i always buy Bahco saws or Irwin Jack saws never had a problem with either brand its just whats cheaper in the merchants at the time :)
     
  9. malkie129

    malkie129 Screwfix Select

    Anyone else thought that Stanley's quality has gone down hill? Not a patch on the old Stanley tools. :( At one time you thought: "Stanley, must be good", but now, much of a muchness. I've got quite a few old Stanley tools,still going strong, but the modern ones, I really couldn't be *with. :(

    Edited by Screwfix Peter due to language
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 31, 2014
  10. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Cut dressed 2x1 with a 7tpi saw, not a chance.
     
  11. malkie129

    malkie129 Screwfix Select

    Must confess that I thought a 7tpi saw was a bit coarse for PAR. Ok for cutting sawn timber.:(
     
  12. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    In those days, most carpenters would have a crosscut saw and a rip saw (and possibly a tenon saw as well) It's nowadays we have a hardpoint saw that has to "do it all" ;);)
     
  13. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    A 7tpi saw will cover a vast range of general cutting jobs, in all types of timber and plastics if needed, this is a general saw, if you are doing a more specific detailed job, then your will need a saw suited for that job.
     
  14. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select


    True enough and that saw will almost certainly be between 6&8 tpi.
     
  15. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Still got the old Disston saws though would never dream of using them now, so heavy and cumbersome. Rip, Crosscut, Panel, Tenon and Dovetailsaws, ranging between 4 and 18tpi, maybe a museum would be interested:) Still use lots of different saws for different applications. Remember the first Lance tooth saws that came out? There wasn't a joiner in the land who didn't need stitches after using them. Hard Points, you've never had it so good.;)
     
  16. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    For the time and cost of having a handsaw sharpened (either by yourself or a saw doctor) your better off buying a hardpoint saw. I still have my saw set, somewhere in the house. (been that long since I used it, a saw would be back from the saw doc , before I found it) ;);)
     
  17. barnjules

    barnjules Member

    I once knew a guy who used a chainsaw for EVERYTHING!!...i even caught him making some delicate alterations to built-in cupboards in his caravan! Lovely job,i said,kinda,erm...rustic
     
  18. teabreak

    teabreak Screwfix Select

    Ah! hand sawing I remember it well, what we need is more power!
    You do forget just how tedious it was to rip down some timber or cut endless numbers of bits only to find they were not quite all the same:oops:
    Must say I seldom do a hand job now, or perhaps should I re-phrase that :p:p:p:p:p
     
  19. barnjules

    barnjules Member

    I became very reliant on power saws especially my trusty jigsaw,and forgot how quick a hand saw can be...dont have to plug it in or charge a battery,no setting up or replacing blades.just pick it up,use,and chuck it away when dull. Nowt wrong with the occasional hand(saw)job :)
     
  20. Most of my tools are stanley fatmax and apart from a naff miter box i bought i have had no problems with my stanley tools, on a slightly different note used my Bahco handsaw to butcher the leg off of a frozen lamb (late christmas bonus from a customer) the hacksaw kept pinching hahahaha
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice