Heating airlock or something else?

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Stevehessex01, Jun 26, 2016.

  1. Stevehessex01

    Stevehessex01 New Member

    Air-lock or something else. Advice sought please.

    Last week I removed our our bathroom radiator and fitted on to the pipes, a heated towel rail. Made a good job of it felt really pleased!
    Had to drain down the radiators, fitted towel rail, then re-filled the system + inhibitor.
    Started central heating and bleed radiators but over the last few days has continually made dull rumbling knocking noises seemingly also when the hot waters on
    Now woke up this morning no hot water - Suprema 50 flashing red, do a restart and after about two minutes and some noise, trips out red again.
    Radiators are all full and do not need bleeding.
    So the question is obviously what's happening but also why is the hot water affected when I touched was the central heating - thought there were separate?
    Any advice from anyone will be greatly appreciated
     
  2. diymostthings

    diymostthings Well-Known Member

    Almost certainly trapped air/air lock, resulting in poor/zero circulation of water which means the water in the boiler will be barely moving and therefore overheating - causing the boiler lock out. The primary water from the boiler normally serves both central heating and (indirectly) tap hot water from the tank. Did you bleed the radiators with the central heating on (i.e. pump runnning)? With some systems the pump is on the boiler return so actually has a suction effect at the bleed screw point and can suck in air. So make sure the pump is off when you bleed. Again, depending on the system you could have bleed points in addition to those on the radiators - check for these and bleed. A solution is to force mains pressure water through the system which can be achieved through the F and E tank. I have also cured air locks by fixing a tube over the expansion pipe in the loft which is positioned over the F and E tank and blowing through it! You will know if you have been successful as the Fand E tank water level will drop and the ball valve will start filling it.

    diymostthings
     
  3. Stevehessex01

    Stevehessex01 New Member

    Great, thanks for that, I'm looking at the header tank now...
    If I forced mains down the bottom gravity inlet, do you reckon that would get everything moving again?
    Other than that, I cannot see any places to bleed air from?
    Cheers
     
  4. diymostthings

    diymostthings Well-Known Member

    sorry over delay responding - been travelling. Yes, concentrate on the F and E tank - I would try blowing down the expansion pipe first (no "wet" operations!) but is that fails, yes, force mains water through the feed pipe at the base.

    Let us know if you are successful. (Should be!)

    diymostthings
     

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