Hi, looking for some advice. new heating system going in a new build house. so far i have a system boiler and an unvented indirect hot water cylinder. this is pre plumbed and has the option to fit a 2nd 2 port valve for a 2nd heating circuit. i am splitting upstairs and downstairs into 2 heating circuits. the cylinder has a 3rd motorised valve to control the hot water. hope thats clear enough. i am looking for a simple system to control this all. i have heard of single/2/3 channel programmers and wireless programmers and also WiFi based systems. i dont want to control all the rads individually, they will have manual TRV on them what do you suggest? looking to keep the costs reasonable and want a fairly simple system to control. thanks in advance for the advice
As its a newbuild you have the option of hard wiring the thermostats and imo would be best option over wireless. I would use a 3 channel programmer http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/drayton-mitime-multi-channel-programmer/ and two thermostats http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/honeywell-t6360b-room-thermostat-t6360b1028. If you wanted a bit more of a smarter system then I would probably use Hive multizone. https://www.hivehome.com/products/hive-active-heating
Wireless,possible interference from some other appliances, had wireless stat at my last place & it throw a wobbly with the wireless doorbell.
ok so if i use a programmer and 2 thermostats - does it matter it the programmer also has a built in stat? do they come without a built in stat?
No you generally use a programmer and thermostats or programmable thermostats. If using programmable thermostats you will also need a timer for the hot water. In your situation I would use a three channel programmer (2 of the channels for the separate heating zones and the other for hot water) and hard wired thermostats.
I'm doing a self build atm with a similar setup and using heatmiser neo. I have UFH on the ground floor, rads 1st floor which are separately zoned and hot water. Additionally to this I have a wood burner and solar thermal incorporated in to the system. The cost of getting gas in to the house is absurd so I'm using an air source heat pump. Also got PV and grey water harvesting.
ok, im starting to understand a bit more. can you advise a bit on the wiring? i only want to know what is connected to what, i dont need to know what wires go where. if i go with 3 channel programmer as you suggest then is this connected by wire to the wiring center on the pre plumbed cylinder? or is it connected to the boiler? or both? and then are the stats connected to this 3 channel programmer? thanks
i built some flats and used underfloor heating off a combi boiler. we used a wiring center and individual room stats and a programmer. i just want to understand this new set up for the new build detached houses im doing.
if i could take up a bit more of your time, could you tell me the following: 1. why is a timer/programmer) needed or desirable for hot water? isnt the cylinder insulated and best kept hot? (at the temp set on the stat) 2. what is the purpose of the room stat? is it to override the programmer if heating isnt needed in that zone? thanks
Okay ... Every accessory/component gets wired back to wiring centre on pre plumbed Cylinder. So you will a fused connection with a 3A fuse feeding the heating system this is best to be wired as a dedicated circuit from the consumer unit. If it's close to wiring centre then 3core 0.75mm flex will do the job, 1mm 3 core and Earth to each thermostat position. At the programmer you will need live, neutral, Earth, hw on, ch1 on and ch2 on so you would be best wiring this with a 1mm t&e and a 1mm 3core and Earth. If it's in the cylinder cupboard then a 6core flex or a 3 and a four core flex. Boiler will need Live, neutral, Earth and switched live (won't have pump live as its a system boiler) so a four core flex or a 3core and Earth. If the fused connection unit is not near the boiler the ideally you should have local isolation (within 1.2 meters of the boiler) to achieve this you could use a fan isolator switch. The purpose of the room thermostat is to maintain room temp at a desired level when it's switched/timed to come on, on the programmer this also applies to the hot water. To meet the requirements of part L of the building regs (energy and conservation) you have to have thermostatic and timed control for both heating and hot water. The sequence of operation of the controls... Programmer is switched/times to come on which sends a feed down to room thermostat/s or cylinder thermostat depending what the programmer is calling for. If thermostat are below desired/ser level then the thermostat sends a feed to the corresponding valve. The valve motors round/opens which then sends a feed to the boiler telling it to fire up. Once desired/set temp is reached or switched off at the programmer the boiler stops firing untill it's asked to again by the thermostats but only if the programmer is switched/times on for that particular zone.
thanks very much, that has cleared up a lot of things i didnt understand. we ran 2 x 3 core and earth from the cylinder to the boiler (didnt know what we were going to use) we can fit the main programmer just outside the heating cupboard and we will fish out 2 cables for this. one room thermostat will be near the cupboard as well only problem is the wire for the downstairs room stat are these room stats usually just twin and earth and earth redundant? volt free contacts? thanks again for the help.
A few options, 2 way hot water & htg programmer with r/stat for htg zone 1, programmable room stat for htg zone 2 Or Single channel hot water programmer, 2 x programmable room stats for htg zones 1&2
Forums
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Instagram
Shop