heating solution for small bathroom(s) and airing cupboard

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by FatHands, Dec 17, 2014.

  1. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    hi.
    does this sound suitable?

    1 Dimplex tubular 120 Watt - old boiler cupboard (now keeping towels in) about 1 metre wide, 0.5 m deep and 2.4 metre high

    1 Dimplex tubular 120 Watt - downstairs toilet about 1 metre square and 2.4 metre high

    warmup underfloor heating cable system and Kudox electric towel rail (both on stats) for bathroom 2.5 metre square, 2.4 metre high

    I was toying with idea of using conventional radiators run from the central heating (combi) although there is then the issue of it not being on in the summer - for keeping towels dry and warm and the bathroom floor cosy. Or could i still do this and just keep the trv's on frost apart from the towel rail and airing cupboard?

    all input gratefully received!
     
  2. plumberboy

    plumberboy Well-Known Member

    Hi Fats.
    Why not use towel rads plumbed into central heating and have electric elements in them for the summer,just a thought mate.;)
     
    FatHands likes this.
  3. Walt Systems

    Walt Systems Member

    It is best to make two zones out of the CH. One for the existing system and one for the rads that will be used in summer for warming.
     
    FatHands likes this.
  4. tom.plum

    tom.plum Screwfix Select

    but is't that putting more moving parts on your system Walt? just asking as you like to have four max, :confused:
     
  5. Walt Systems

    Walt Systems Member

    Mr Plumb you are getting it. We do need as few parts as possible. There are far fewer parts on your horse and cart than in a white van.
     
  6. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    hi everyone,
    thanks for posting :)

    PB - I was looking at those, although the range of them look quite limited and they are quite expensive to buy and run i guess (the electric element of them) as far as i can see mate. Is this the case? Perhaps i missing something/looking in the wrong places! I have heard good things about those Dimplex 120 tube heaters - reliability and low running costs that is.
    I guess i need to price up both ideas to install and the ongoing running costs (i want to pop underfloor heating in too which is apparently better to run from the boiler )

    Walt - I have been doing some reading up on heating systems and would i be right in saying you are referring to a Sundial S Plan system?

    If so, would it be necessary to install a 2-port valve before the first "T" of what is currently the flow for the entire house? I assume this would then be controlled by a device to call the heat from the boiler and only the rads i need for the bathrooms, airing cupboard and underfloor heating would be connected via this valve - with the return flow all being common for both zones? I say this because the boiler only has a flow and a return.

    If so, would it be a good idea to install next to the boiler (should it ever fail) or is under the floor acceptable?

    Also, what about the flow of water - would the pump within the combi be adequate for all this? I assume so as it was spec'd up for the house with view to extending.

    Thanks and Merry Christmas
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2014
  7. plumberboy

    plumberboy Well-Known Member

    Hi Fats.
    The elements for the rads are quite cheap to run and a lot easier than having to zone it separately for a summer circuit.;)
     
    FatHands likes this.
  8. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    thanks PB. I am just looking at the dual feed ones now (ch and electric) on bathempire.com which have a 10 year warranty on the rad and brackets made of metal rather than the plastic ones which seem to warm up and fall off a day after the warranty goes!

    happy christmas mate
     
    plumberboy likes this.
  9. plumberboy

    plumberboy Well-Known Member

    GOODLUCK!!!! Fats;)
     
    FatHands likes this.
  10. Walt Systems

    Walt Systems Member

    You need a zone valve off the flow from the boiler to the rad in bathroom before any valves on the flow pipe. The return from the rad is the last return pipe teed into the Boiler return pipe before the boiler. You can activate the bathroom rad by a push-in wall mounted timer switch. One push say set to 8 mins - you will get to know the time the boiler heats all the rad. In summer the rad will heat up and the boiler only runs for 8 mins - enough to heat up the rad. In summer it is to warm or dry towels not heat the bathroom. The residual heat in the rad is enough to do that.

    Say you are to get a bath. Push the timer then the bathroom rad heats up and warms the towels. After a bath hang up the towel and push in again to dry the towels. You can wire the bathroom rad zone valve into the CH clock so when the CH is switched on in winter so is the bathroom rad. When CH is switched off by the clock then the push-in switch only brings in the bathroom radiator and only for enough time to heat it, saving money.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2014
    FatHands likes this.
  11. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    thanks walt. i will take a look and weigh up prices etc.
    merry christmas
    fats
     
  12. Hi Fats.

    These tubular Dimplex's - I know they are low wattage, but what happens if a towel falls over it in that airing cupboard? Could they overheat? Scorch? Tho' I guess you could make a guard to cover it?

    For the wee downstairs loo, I think I would chose that 150W Kudox over the Dimplex tubular heater any time. The Kudox will look miles better (it will actually add to the room), will keep your hand towel dry (important) and is only £40-odd more.

    For your larger bathroom, I would say it depends on what underfloor system you go for - leccy or wet. (Underfloor is great, by the way - my next hooise will have it... :rolleyes: ).

    So, if going wet underfloor, then absolutely fit a 'wet' towel rail too, but one with leccy back-up element for summer/mild use. Simple solution and best of both worlds.

    If instead you are thinking leccy underfloor, then I guess I would still consider a 'dual' towel rail, but only if getting the 'wet' system to it was easy to run. Otherwise, leccy all the way.

    (My airing cupboard just has a zig-zag of bare copper pipe along one side as part of the CH loop - plenty heat to keep it all cosy. But only when the CH is on, of course... So, if the CH pipes very close to your airing cupboard, you could just take a loop up into your airing cupboard. Not a loop across the flow and return pipes, 'cos that would need valves and sh*, but just a short extension of an existing flow pipe to the nearest rad. Ie - if there's a CH pipe under there, just cut it and divert both ends into the cupboard and add a neat loop of pipe before it returns.)

    In any event, I wouldn't bother trying to add a separate 'zone' for chust summer rads/towel rails. I can't see many boilers being too happy about being fired up to provide only 300-odd watts of heating. And the cost and complexity of running these extra pipes, zone valves, timer/thermostat controls - man, that's chust crazy. Crazy, I tell ye...
     
    FatHands likes this.
  13. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    Hey DA, thanks for posting mate and sorry for the slow reply.
    I found the instructions for the Dimplex tube which states it must be installed horizontally and as you have pointed out: not suitable to be covered. This wouldn't be a problem for the airing cupboard.
    I could mount it low down and out of way of the shelves which would be stuffed with towels.

    I have yet to work out the cost of all this stuff, but suspect i will go with the Dimpex tube for the airing cupboard, combined towel rad for the main bathroom, leccy under floor (the wet ones are far more expensive to purchase although i would suspect more cost efficient to run) and a leccy towel rail for the downstairs toilet.

    Thanks for all your posts. Happy new year!
     

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