Hi there, Moved into a new place three weeks ago and have had a bit of a nightmare with the builder I've chosen to work on renovating it. Lots of issues (I agreed to a day rate, which I regret massively having already had him working for three weeks to fit three quarters of a kitchen!), but wanted to see whether anyone could help with some info on the kitchen worktop. Bought a solid oak worktop from Benchmarx which was a good £400 a length. He's cut the two lengths and they're currently sat on the cabinets waiting to be joined together. Noticed when I got back yesterday that he's just cut them both straight without a hockey stick join to seal the corner joint. Is that ok? Would it cause any major issues if he just joined the two straight edges? Out of interest, what would the total cost for a small kitchen fitting be, including rewiring and plumbing, fitting lighting, tiling etc? Many thanks, Tom
These three weeks haven't been spent solely on the kitchen, surely? As for the tops, a 'straight' join is ok provided the front edge profile is accounted for. What are the front top and bottom edges of the worktop like? I presume they have a small bevel? In which case this needs taking into account where they join at the front - the bevel should continue around the corner seamlessly. Ie - as teeny-tiny mitre for a few mm is required at the very least to accommodate that bevel. If there's a tiny gap in that bevel, or if he's using filler, then kill him. I think. (Oh, and a day rate is madness... Sorry.)
Butt joint ok as DA said, although a 10mm masons mitre would be better if there is a bevelled edge. The main thing to check before they're fitted is that if they require oiling, the underneath must be done before fitting otherwise they'll warp all over the place due to temp/humidity etc.
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