help-new kitchen

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by sarah martin, Jun 20, 2014.

  1. sarah martin

    sarah martin New Member

    I have just had a kitchen fitted & as my fridge/freezer neaded replacing I decided to opt for a "50/50 fridge freezer housing appliance & would then buy a new integrated fridge/freeer - however on taking the measurments before I buy (it,s a 600mm housing) the depth is 500 - I have looked at numerous f/f & they are all well over 500mm depth - does this mean that the back panel of the housing should not have been fitted? as this appears the only way to give it more depth (wall to front is 570mm) - I,m at a loss as what to do - can someone advise please.
     
  2. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    I would have thought not, even from a airflow point of veiw to keep the motors cool.
     
    sarah martin likes this.
  3. As Phil says, you'd want that back panel out just to allow proper ventilation to the back of the FF. It often also requires vent holes in the plinth below.

    Who fitted the kitchen? Surely they knew the housing was going to be taking a FF?

    Is there a cupboard in that housing too? If so, you'd obviously want a back panel in that section, so if the fitted back panel is a single large panel, it'll need cutting so's the required - unit - part is left behind.

    Not the end of the world - you shouldn't have to remove the whole housing unit :)
     
    sarah martin likes this.
  4. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Is this an Ikea kitchen?
     
  5. sarah martin

    sarah martin New Member

    thank you for your reply - a kitchen fitter fitted the kitchen !! & yes they knew it was for a f/f - it hasn,t got a separate cupboard in it but has 1 adjustable shelf that I was hoping to use above the f/f (according to how tall the new f/f was) when the housing was being unpacked I did see a "vent" but it,s not fitted anywhere-I now imagine that this should have gone in the "kick board" thankyou so much for advice-will start to sort this tomorrow
     
  6. sarah martin

    sarah martin New Member

    no not ikea - it is from howdens
     
  7. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    A standard worktop is usually at least 600mm deep, why is yours so shallow?
     
  8. sarah martin

    sarah martin New Member

    yes your quite right-although I had only measured to the back of the door-the door then adds another 20mm but that is still under 600 - I think the housing unit & the larder unit next to it should have been brought forward to line them up with the adjoining 600 mm surfaces - oh dear I can see problems - have only just noticed that the surfaces stand proud of the tall units
     
  9. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    The back panel in a unit is a flimsy bit of hardboard, punch it and it will fall out.
     
  10. I'm assuming, Chippie, that Sarah means that the inside depth of the housing is around 500mm, not the overall depth of the housing side? At least I hope that's what she meant. That would make sense; the external depth of the units will be around 570mm? So allowing for the fitted back panel she will have measured around 500mm inside the unit - which is too shallow for a FF.

    Sarah, your fitter must have overlooked that element of the install - really he should have left the back panel out, and also drilled holes/ cut away a vent in the kick-board (plinth) and fitted that grill over it.

    Perhaps he assumed he couldn't do this until the FF was chosen - usually there is room for a cupboard either above or below the FF and that cupboard will need the back panel. They are hard to fit once the unit is in place, so perhaps he thought "I'll fit the whole thing, and the FF installer can cut away the bit not needed?"

    But, the vent should still have gorn in there. Plinths can usually just be pulled away forwards - they are held by large clips that go around the unit legs.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 21, 2014
  11. Sarah, there is an adjustable shelf in this unit, you say? How is this adjusted - is it just sitting on shelf pins?

    Anyways, you will want the back-board on that part so's your cupboard is tidy and isolated from the gap behind the unit. Who will be fitting the FF when it arrives? Yourselves? If so, slip the FF into place, see how that shelf fits immediately above it, and then come back on here for advice :).

    There is every chance that you can get a door to fit over that part too - very few people leave it as an 'open' shelf.
     
  12. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    How is the F/F going to be powered? I asume the socket is fitted on the wall behind back panel...
     
  13. sarah martin

    sarah martin New Member

    devils advocate,chippie & jitender - thank you so much for your time replying - the sockets are in place for power & are in the unit next to it so no problem there - the adjustable shelf is just sitting on shelf pins & yes we are going to fit the f/f ourselves so I will do as suggested & knock the back panel out or perhaps with the correct tool the area could be cut out in situ leaving the "shelf" area with a back on ? you are quite correct D/A as to how I measured the unit.the vent in the plinth will not be a problem now I know how it should be-
     
  14. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Howdens use a 6mm MDF back panel for base units i think, hoping that the fitter nailed in the panel at the top and if cut in situ the panel should hold in place, otherwise it will slide down in the channels. I am just worried that after time that the now un-nailed edge will slowly bow out over time allowing small items to fall down the gap.
     
  15. If the shelf is loosely sitting on pins, it certainly won't be secure at the back as Jitend says. However, it most likely is held at the top so won't actually slip downwards. After being cut to size, it can be simply glued to the back of the shelf, Sarah - run a bead of something strong, and support it with a wedge placed between it and the house wall until it sets.

    To cut it to size, once you are CERTAIN of the shelf position, run a Stanley knife along the back panel using the shelf bottom as your guide - right in there at the back/top of where the FF is going to fit. Score with the knife gently, and keep going. And going...

    Or, do you have a pad saw - a handle with a serrated blade sticking out the end? If so, you can drill a hole in the panel and insert this, and saw away (it'll be easier - much - than a Stanley...)

    There will be tiny bits still intact at each side where the 'grooves' are - just give the panel a good thump...

    (And, almost certainly you can get a door to fit - and it'll look a lot better...)
     
  16. sarah martin

    sarah martin New Member

    devils advocate - brilliant advice - shopping today for the f/f & now I know what has to be done all should be o.k. - thankyou very much
     
  17. Happy New FF.

    When it comes :).
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice