Hi bought a new thermostat a salus rt300 wired it as per other threads on forums and to the best of my knowledge it's correct please see attached pictures The problem is the little flame comes on to show its calling for heat even if you set it to 30oC but the boiler doesn't fire up When I first switched the power back on the boiler fired straight up and I thought all was good then it went off and wouldn't come back on I put the old thermostat back on and all is good again so either my wiring is wrong or there's something else Recently wired one of these salus one in my parents house and all was great straight away Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance
From your photo you have wired correctly, & you fitted the batteries correctly, then it should work. What about SLEEP MODE function? All output from the thermostat will be turned off immediately, & the LCD display will be blank. Looking at the manual here: AFTER INSTALLATION After completing installation and powering up the RT300 for the first time the thermostat will behave in the following way: All the indicators on the display and the backlight will be turned on for two seconds. After two seconds, the RT300 will then operate in Normal mode (Normal mode is when the thermostat is displaying the room temperature)
Yes all lights up and displays correctly with the correct room temp as soon as you set what temp you want the little flame light comes on to call for heat but nothing Have a separate timer on the boiler for when the heating is set to come on and go off which you can also set to constant which I did for a test and still no heat it's as if the thermostat isn't telling the boiler to fire was only replacing the thermostat as I have just replaced all the light switches and sockets and this looks a lot more modern looking than the old dial
Sorry, I think the correct term is volt free. Here's a link which should explain the differences: http://www.flameport.com/electric/central_heating/combination_boilers_thermostat.cs4.
Yes, it's volt-free contacts. By that, Razor, it means it acts like a simple 'switch' - two contacts are closed inside to make a connection when heat is called for, and opened again when that temp level is reached. The 'L' and 'SL' terminals - ie the RED and the YELLOW (sleeved RED 'cos it's also carries 240V at times) are the two wires that are switched together inside. It should work in your situation. Razor, when you turn the 'stat up anbd down until the flame symbol goes orn and offski, can you also hear a light 'click' from inside the 'stat? I think you should be able to. That's a wee relay inside wot does the actual switching. I'm at a loss, here. That 'stat should switch 3A which should be enough for virtually all boilers. If, when you refit the old 'stat or when you join the RED and YELLOW together* the boiler works ok as before, then it can only be a faulty Salus (unless it's a daft setup issue as KIAB suggests.) Can't think of anything else. * If you are brave, you can test your wiring by bridging the L and SL terminals on that backplate in your first pic. Obviously only do this if you know what you are doing, and you use insulated wire. Do you have a test meter? If so, you can try for continuity across these two terminals on the actual Salus AFTER you've removed it from the backplate - when it's away from the rest of the boiler circuit. See if it acts like a switch. (You didn't initially wire it up, er, wrong, did you? Ie - include the BLUE neutral wire into the Salus? That would explain it being faulty... )
Agree it should work. The Blue wire is just parked in No2 in 1st photo, also there also no bridge connection either, so bridging isn't a good idea to test it. OP put back old thermostat back & everything worked ok, is there a reset option on Salus, might work.
Is it sitting correctly on the back plate? The blues terminal block not preventing it from sitting home?
If it's a traditional Honeywell T6360B, term 2 is a neutral connection for the anticipator/accelerator resistor.
Had crossed my mind, I just reread my installation manual I have & it says: For T6360B and T4360E a neutral connection must be made to terminal 2 when the heating load is less than 6 Amps. A quick google & a pdf copy of manual here: https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwjh5bqz6tPKAhWGwBQKHVY9CgYQFghGMAE&url=http://www.honeywelluk.com/documents/installation-guide/pdf/1151.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGAbjcH9b5eNb5u9--YtNkrv0_Ukw&cad=rja
I'm going to have a go at refitting the thermostat today and will isolate the blue wire with insulting tape just to see if this is the case and as my parents have the same thermostat I'm going to go try it on there system to see if this is a faulty unit or not If the unit isn't fault and the terminal block isn't causing issues then I'm totally stumped Also would just like to thank everyone for there help and input much appreciated
Slightly off topic, the neutral accelerator always get described as making the stat more efficient/accurate by gently heating it so it doesn't take too long to switch off and then back on again. However as posted above - For T6360B and T4360E a neutral connection must be made to terminal 2 when the heating load is less than 6 Amps. My take on it is they can be used on higher loads, such as electric under floor heating or panel heaters etc, I come across a fair few old flats that have electic UFH. If they are used on high loads then they will obviously run warmer, if they just used the two wire connection for a boiler the calibration would be out slightly so a little heater is used inside them to simulate the higher temp. Thus enabling one type of stat to be made for all tasks.
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