Hi guys I've got a hot tub that I'm wanting to connect. I've attached the specs for the hot tub. The wiring will need to go about 27 meters from the fuse board. There will be 3 core SWA. I've read up on these wiring systems and was curious why it is recommended to go on a 13amp breaker. What wiring would be recommended for this hot tub as I think the 13amp is just a guidance on the tech notes. This is not something I'm looking to do on my own, there will be a napit contractor with me. But it's something in curious about.... surly 2.5 SWA is insufficient
Thanks for the reply pal, I'm just interested in how this all works out. If it is the case where you say 2.5 should be fine, I'm sure that can easily run off a 16amp breaker, to an isolator switch (IP rated) from the isolator to the hot tub, obviously baring in mind the regs for how far the isolator should be from the tub ect
It requires a 13 amp supply, but various other factors need to be considered, your Napit person will factor them all in. Whilst we're on, and this one really bugs me tbh, Et-cetera, the first three letters give it away as far as abbreviating it goes, how come sooooo many people get it wrong? Lol, on almost all the forums I frequent people use ect instead, and wrongly. Soap box stowed away now
You will find with these lower KW tubs designed to "plug in", that the heater will turn itself off when you have the main pump running. This reduces the current drawn, but means the water won't be heated while you're using the tub, and splashing water cools quickly! If you're installing a new circuit, go for a 32amp supply, and look for a better tub that doesn't turn the heater off when the tub is in use!
And a 2KW heater is going to take a l-o-n-g time to heat up the water in a hot tub. Your average kitchen kettle is more than 2KW, that takes a minute or so to boil a litre of water. So you'll need to turn it on yesterday if you are going to use it today..
Bazza is right, a 2 kW heater will take a long tome to warm the water, it may even not get up to temp without the insulating lid on the tub. Also your cable will have no 'resting time' to cool when the thermostat is open, so a larger cable should be considered. There is more to this job than just supplying the cable that will carry the current, swimming pool regulations should be considered as the tub is outside the equipotential zone of protection. You should consider either, 1 Not taking the house earthing conductor out to the tub and have a local earth electrode and RCD, or 2 Create an equipotential zone around the tub using earth electrodes in a circle about 2 metres away from the tub. I know that others on this site will consider my suggestions excessive, but when designing an installation differing disconnection times on one CCU and the lower body resistance due to people being wet and in contact with true ground, I don't think you can be too careful.
The difference between a 2c 2.5mm swa and a 2c 4mm is 32p per m so for under a tenner you have somewhat future proofed incase you find that a 2kW heater is not sufficient for a hot tub
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