Hi everyone I am currently refitting a kitchen which I have done in the past before. However the walls of this kitchen are dry lined over the top of thermalite block. What is the best way please to fix the wall units to the wall bearing in mind there is about 20mm of plaster/plasterboard/gap until you reach the thermalite? Thanks in advance M
Loads of ways to do this job and you will get a fair few alternatives suggested I'm sure These cabinet brackets are great and have loads of adjustment on them for lining up the units. You may have this system fitted in your units already but if not, just retro fit them; http://www.screwfix.com/p/nylon-cabinet-brackets-with-mounting-plate-pack-of-10/91611 Would suggest that if you have several units to fit, ditch the wall plates that come with them and use complete lengths; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cabinet-W...643891?hash=item235d3584f3:g:pVQAAOSwKIpWEi5e Just need to notch out sides of units, but not the very 1st side and the last side, just sit the rail slightly in from 1st and last edge These rails allow you to get plenty of fixings into the plasterboard and maybe add a few long (80mm) ? screws and plugs into the blocks for good measure These PB fixings are always good, available in smaller pack sizes elsewhere; http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/47347
Good suggestions from Dave. You'll be ok with long screws 70-80 mm and Decent rawl plugs. Drill down at a slight angle instead to give the fixing even more grip. I'd also recommend going slightly smaller with your drill size as thermalites are quite soft and don't tend to grip plugs quite as well. Say 5/5.5mm for red plugs etc. Dont use hammer mode when you drill and make sure the plugs are hammered through the PB and into the blocks. Just drill, push plugs flush with PB, put your screws through your brackets, and tighten a tad into plugs, then hammer the screws/plugs through into blocks then tighten up. Be careful not to over tighten though because you may crush the PB. As long as the bracket is not loose...it's tight enough
Thank you both of you for your replies. Both good suggestions and I think I can tackle this task much easier now. Great advice!
These long rails are definitely the way to go. They spread the load, and also keep things nice and straight. Plasterboard fixings are ok to fill in the gaps between the proper fixings - that is screws right through into the blocks as described above. (If you need to remove the block dust from the drilled holes, use a longish screw - 3" or so, and size 10 or 12 - and 'screw' it a few times into the hole using your fingers, and then pull it straight out. The dust will be caught in t'threads.) Ok, this will sound naff, but hey; one other thing I tend to do before placing the rail finally in position and screwing it home is add a smear of PVA (or 'no-nails' or any other adhesive) to the back of the rail so's it ends up stuck to the wall. This isn't to add more 'strength', but to stop future movement. With these types of fixings, it's the small movements and vibrations that constantly happen - loading shelves, banging doors - that end up loosening the fixings and begin to tear the p'board. Ok, it ain't all gonna come crashing down anyways, but you chust don't want any movement happening at all - droop or sag...
Well your house has been up for 20 years, it will probably not fall down after all this time. The problem is a lot of the houses of this era weren't built using the best materials or skills so they will tend to move and flex.