How to remove downlighters without damaging plaster

On some fittings, once you remove the bulb, you will have access to the springs. Using long nosed pliers, unhook one spring from its lugs and the fitting will be easier to remove
If your reusing the fittings, then mind you don't loose the spring in the ceiling void

If that method isn't possible, then pull down the fitting just enough to get your fingers around the springs and compress tight to the fitting
Depends on size of your hands and the quality of the fittings how easy this is. The better fittings have really tight springs that take some squeezing so good luck

 

or....you could ease the fittings down a few mm and use a cable tie to compress the springs ?
RS

 

From above is usually easier squeeze the springs in and post them down

 

Pull down a tad and find where the springs locate. Push back up. Now push the whole fitting towards one of the springs to compress it. Pull down the other side.

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Most of this trouble arises through people fitting them in too small a hole. (have to admit to doing that myself a time or two!)

 

The early JCC fireguard halogen downlight are notorious for popping the edge of the plaster. The heat from lamp heats the can, the can heat damages the plaster. The wings on the fitting pop the plaster when dropping those out, and the bezel has little coverage to conceal them. **** design.

When the requirement for fire rated fixings came out, the designs were rushed IMO. Their is nowhere for the heat to escape, so the fittings get sooo hot, and burn the lamp holders out. JCC blamed the lamps that were fitted, dichroic throwing the heat backwards. But this is the lamps THEY initially supplied! They soon swapped to supplying aluminium reflector lamps instead, but people just fit what they find.

 

I think carefully is the answer, although I find its not the actual spring that's the problem, more the coil on the end of the spring where it attaches to the fitting and bulges out a bit, if you can get that back through the hole the rest is easier.

As mentioned above its all to do with the hole size, but my problem is I use a 70mm cutter which is a couple of mm too small but the next size up I can find is a 76mm and that's too big. Having said all that though, once they are in the ceiling and working its the decorators problem, not mine.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/PIECE-DOWN-LIGHT-LIGHTING-50-86MM/dp/B003BVSDC2


Cheap set but if only for spots in plaster board I'm sure it will last a while

http://www.starrett.co.uk/shop/holesaws/fastcut/

Starrett list a 73mm perfect for the job are very good quality

 

Don, can you figure out how the springs work on the ones you've removed? And tackle the removal based on that?

On many (most? all?) it's not chust of a case of the springy things being squished inward whilst you fit them in t'ole and then 'springing' out to hold the fitting, but the springs are actually 'L'-shaped 'levers' so that when they are pressed fully home the two long spring arms are levered out and back down on to the top of the p'board surface in the roof, and the short legs of these springs are pressed real tight against the p'board hole sides and can - usually do - cause some damage to the p'board edges when pressed into place.

So the p'board already has some damage and weakness at these two points - pulling the lights out only makes this worse.

Are you planning to refit these lamps or chuck them? If the latter, then try easing them out a half inch and see if you can get long-nosed pliers in there to press the sides of the coiled - hinge - part of the spring together to release it from the two sprogs it's on, and the spring will hopefully go 'twang' and not be anm issue any more.

Except they will live forever in your void - dee-dee-deeeee-dooooooo.

You could always tie a thread to the spring end first so's you can pull the 'steward out afterwards.

As said above, remove as much of the actual lamp part as you can first of all, and you might find that you can reach that spring from the centre hole of the fitting even before you start to pull it out.

Or perhaps not.

 

From personal experience most downlighter manufacturer must buy in the springs from mousetrap manufacturers ....

 

I've certainly had a few snap on my fingers, usually when its icy cold as well. I've took the odd one out of my house to try various different LED lamps in over the time and the ones that I've had out the plaster is knackered round the edge now.

 

I have a very wide, really thin scraper (bit like a wide razor blade) that i can usually slide between the fitting and ceiling allowing me to move it enough to get a good grip on it.

 

I tried the U shape wood. It could be mine was too thick - but by the time you put the wood, and pull the light out even further most the damage to the plaster is done.

What I did is cutout a plaster notch on one side where 1 of 2 metal prongs were coming out. Then get a bull nose to squeeze the one of the prongs together. The prongs actually come off.

My first attempt and I'd say there's 1 mm by 8mm outside the radius of the light fixture that is visible as damaged.