I drilled straight into an 8mm copper central heating pipe!

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by stitch-up, Oct 10, 2014.

  1. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    Yes, it was me, I was the only one there so can't blame the missus :)

    I was drilling through a downstairs wall and hit the 8mm copper central heating pipe. The pipe wrapped around the drill bit!

    I was able to compress the pipe with a pair of pliers to stop the leak, now just a bit of a drip (just how I'm feeling).

    Here's a picture of the damage I caused
    [​IMG]

    Any tips on fixing this?

    Many thanks

    John
     
  2. plumberboy

    plumberboy Well-Known Member

    TUT TUT!!!! Silly boy.:)
    Go onto YouTube and try TomPlum your sure to find a video there to help you.;)
     
  3. tom.plum

    tom.plum Screwfix Select

    actually PB I have't done one on fettling a drilled pipe, so there's a job for me this weekend,

    easiest way is to buy 2- 8mm compession connectors, I don't think they do pushfit in 8mm ? and join the pipe back up,
     
  4. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    Last week I was replacing a few floor boards in someone's house and one of them (right in a corner) was bending when anyone stood on it. Got my multitool out to cut through the floor board. As it was going through I felt it hit something a bit harder than wood, so backed off a bit. Once the floor board was lifted, I found I'd just scratched the surface of a live 15mm water pipe. If I'd pressed a bit harder, it would have been a disaster. ;);)
     
  5. tom.plum

    tom.plum Screwfix Select

    its surpising how easy it is to hit a small pipe hid in a wall, if you wanted to hit it intentional you'd be trying all day the chances are 10000's to 1, but because you don't want to hit it, its simple,o_O
     
  6. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    Thanks for the replies.

    It was my own stupidity that caused this. I'd drilled a 2cm hole through a brick wall and the hole came out just above some conduit that covered the 8mm pipes. I needed to open the hole to 2.5cms and thought the bit was following the original path - the rest is history :(

    I watched a few of tomplums videos and very helpful they are :) In one of the videos I think Tom was using a 13Kg butane gas cylinder with a torch. As I have a few of these 13Kg cylinders full, I'd like to source the torch with regulator that I could use - any ideas?

    John
     
  7. plumberboy

    plumberboy Well-Known Member

    I got called out a while back because a guy put a nail through his central heating pipe because his missus kept moaning about the floorboard moving when she walked on it,all his doing of coarse and she was still chewing his ear off when I left,poor bloke wasn't helped by my bill either.:):)
     
  8. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    The smallest size they do 8mm at Screwfix is 25m. I also made a mistake a long time ago and drove a nail straight into 8mm mb, I just brought 2 compression couplings and a reel of pipe. I still must have about 18m left.
     
  9. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    On one job, I managed to drill through the downstairs ring main in the morning, and hit a central heating pipe with a chisel in the afternoon. :eek: Luckily the central heating system was empty at the time. ;)
     
  10. plumberboy

    plumberboy Well-Known Member

    :p:p:p
     
  11. Jitender

    Jitender Screwfix Select

    Make sure you don't kink the pipe when you form the internal corner.
     
  12. joinerjohn1

    joinerjohn1 Screwfix Select

    Nice tip there Jit, the OP doesn't want kinky pipework. :p:p:p:p:p
     
  13. teabreak

    teabreak Screwfix Select

    I have a feeling that gas fire tubing is 8mm if I remember correctly.
    It will be chrome or bronze plated with a 1/4 BSP thread at one end it should work OK with 8mm Compression fittings and is fairly bendable.
    http://www.diy.com/departments/plumbsure-gas-fire-tube/178431_BQ.prd
    Might save you buying 25mtrs!
    Safest thing might be to use a compression elbow for the tight corner.
     
  14. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    Bought 25m of the stuff yesterday :) Now I can drill holes everywhere without worrying! :)
     
  15. teabreak

    teabreak Screwfix Select

    Good insurance now you will never need it again!!!:cool:
     
  16. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    So now I'm about to fix the damaged pipes!

    As the pressure in the central heating system has dropped to '0' ZERO, how do I re-pressure the system? The boiler is a Worcester 280. Below is a picture of all the feeds etc.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers

    John
     
  17. HOWD PLUM

    HOWD PLUM New Member

    the chrome pipe with the 2white nuts on is called the filling loop which are connected to 2 with taps with quarter turn levers you need to turn these to allow water to fill c/h. there will be a pressure gauge on boiler fill ch till pressure get to 1bar bleed air from rads when you have done this turn off the 2 taps to stop water entering c/h
     
  18. HOWD PLUM

    HOWD PLUM New Member

    make sure pressure gauge is 1bar on boiler gauge when system filled if not boiler may not fire up
     
  19. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    Thanks for the answers, I was thinking it was something like that.

    Very grateful for all the help.

    John
     
  20. stitch-up

    stitch-up Member

    Update:

    I purchased all the fittings, elbows, stops, solder, burner, wire wool, flux and probably more ....... Assembled everything back together and soldered. Filled the system back up to 1Bar and not a leak or weep to be seen - lovely feeling of achievement when all goes right :)

    Thanks to everyone for your help.

    Now what else can I break ................ :)
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice