Ideal Logik + wireless digital thermostat

Ok, see if you can identify where the cables are going from that centre box.

There's a round white cable - that looks as tho' it's going to the boiler? In which case, how many wires does it have inside?

There's also a grey 'flat' cable heading off the same way - is that also going to the boiler? (If so, it'll likely be the boiler control and/or the frost 'stat.)

Then there's two more flat grey cables heading straight upwards. I'm guessing that one at least is the mains power to that whole assembly - the other could be the mains loop carrying on to the next mains socket.

And then there's a wider flat grey cable coming down the wall and going through a hole. I don't suppose that is going to the 'stat in the connie, is it? Or to the timer in the kitchen.


Ok, you cannot do this job unless you know what these cables are.

What I would do personally is to remove the timer as it'll no longer be needed. Also remove the 'stat in the connie - ditto.

Your wireless receiver will then be mounted on that wall close to the other boxes - perhaps below that central box? Most of the cables there will be got rid off, and the receiver wired in.

At the moment your boiler has a mains feed to power it. It also has a 'control' wire going to it which has come from the room 'stat which in turn has been supplied from the timer. All that will go, and the control wire will be supplied by the receiver.

Once you tell us what all these cables are, we'll be able to tell you what - and whether... - you wire.

 

Could you post a slightly wider version of 1506 - so that we can see the actual end of the white cable?

You should be able to connect your receiver to the white box in the middle using just 3-core + earth cable.

All the wires you need to connect it to should already be inside that white box in t'middle.

The existing timer and connie 'stat should ideally be completely removed and the wiring disconnected at that white box - and as much cable as possible also removed.

You must know what you are doing before you start.

So, three 'shoulds' and a 'must'.

Not really sure we'll be able to guide you through this.

 

Loving the optimism

 

Sorry, Bond - I'm stepping away from this one. There's U/F heating too?!

This is chust too much to do 'remotely'. Soz...

 

Its one of those need to be there scenarios the wider picture .......... Its one of those hands on jobs. Get someone in you have had a few good tips ............ Time to crack your wallet open and get someone in

 

Good replies DA although sadly gone unappreciated Here from me

 

Bond, the sparky won't need talking through anything.

This can't be done over a forum - not without one of us jumping in front of a train.

It just won't work with us saying things like "take that wire and stick it there instead..." Too many wires involved.

If you really want to DIY this, you really need to be able to work out what's involved yourself - it's asking for mega problems if you don't understand what's happening.

So here it is - an overview. So's you can make the judgement...

Your boiler has a power supply - it'll still need to have this. It also has a 'control' wire to make it come on 'Central Heating'.

You also have a programmer and a room 'stat. Both of these also have a mains power supply, although the 'stat only becomes live when the prog tells it to.

Ok, when the programmer 'turns on' the CH, it sends a live signal to the room 'stat. If the room 'stat also calls for heat then it sends this signal on to the boiler to switch it on.

You mention you also have U/F heating? Is this supplied by this same boiler? If 'yes', then I'm guessing there is also a motorised valve in the circuit to enable the rad circuit and the U/F circuit to be controlled independently of each other. In which case the room 'stat I mentioned above doesn't send this 'on' signal to the boiler, but sends it to the motorised valve instead. And this motorised valve also has a power supply.

So, when the programmer goes 'on' and sends this 'on' signal to the room 'stat, and the 'stat also says "I want heat", it sends this 'on' signal to the motorised valve which activates and opens the flow pipe and then sends this 'on' signal to the boiler. Which then comes on.

All you need to do is rip out the programmer and the room 'stat, keep the motorised valve, and insert the receiver into the circuit in the place of the prog and 'stat.

Job done.

 

I honestly don't know. I'd have thought it would get connected to the white central wiring box. But I don't know.

And your sparky will have a glazed look on his face as you tell him 'all you know', and will then go off and work it all out for himself...