Looking to have an induction hob fitted and wondered what sort of cost it might be. I have put all the details that I have below to try and get a rough price on what people might think it could be and also hoping that what I have put is an approved option. Induction Hob - 7.2Kw Cable Chosen - 6mm T+E Breaker - Type B RCD 30A Wall socket - 45A Double Pole ?? Cable run is coming straight down from CU (chased wall), then chased flooring about 2.1m across and then up through chased wall again. I am waiting for an electrician to come out to quote, so at this point, I am unsure of the depth required (if acceptable) to have the cable chased into the floor. Also, can I use a standard cooker face plate for the hob? Thanks in advance
I see no problem. There is really no difference between an induction hob and any other hob as far as wiring goes. OK it may seem to use more power than a halogen but in real terms boost is used very infrequent and so little heat is wasted what ever the plate says it uses less than a halogen hob. The only problem I have had with induction hobs is not the hob it's self but the human machine interface. Knobs work great as items start to boil over a quick turn of the knob is all that is required. However for some unknown reason some have touch controls which are just too slow and one has to lift pan rather then simply turn off because the touch controls are so slow. Also they have a problem for the disabled and children as the display needs to be viewed from above at the angle a child or wheel chair user views then they are invisible. The power requirements are simply not a problem my stand alone rated at around 50 amp but it has never tripped the 32A MCB it does not use the power for long enough to trip it.
An electrician has been to take a look. Not sure if I will go with him as he hasn't fitted an induction hob before... scary. He has mentioned that I can have a single pole 32A MCB with a double pole cooker switch near it. Not sure if that is acceptable. Paperwork states DP MCB. Will the DP cooker switch actually isolate the L&N and he is actually correct? I don't want the MCB getting too much of a load, getting warm and tripping. Wanted to ping it out there as I have had some great feedback from this forum.
I checked the current cooker plate and that has the supply but there is no load as the kitchen is empty at the moment as I am re-doing all the cabinets. The one that is there currently will have an eye level oven and the hob will be on it's own circuit. Is that the info you were after?
The request for the DP MCB is to provide isolation and has no relation to the loading, whether a single or double pole MCB is used or not. It would be very unusual in the UK to have the ability to fit DP MCB's into a standard consumer unit. I would suggest what you are being offered is perfectly acceptable as far as isolating the hob is concerned. Your initial post regarding the breaker is incorrect, RCD's don't provide overload protection only earth leakage, so depending on your consumer unit: If you have RCD's then an MCB is fine, if you don't then 1) consider an upgrade to a twin RCD board, or 2) fit RCBO for the supply to the hob
Thanks for that info Craig. So having a DP cooker switch to isolate the hob will be fine to use? I did actually post a photo on my other post about the CU getting full. It has two RCD's fitted. Would that be sufficient?
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