Installation of a Chinese type gas wok cooker

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Adam Growden, May 3, 2015.

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  1. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member

    Hi guys, I hope someone can help me out here. First of all let me say that I am only 16 years old, and I have just started my apprenticeship in plumbing, so as you can expect not a lot of knowledge :) but I am willing to learn and hopefully one day I'll become a very good plumbing engineer. One of the plumbers looking after me, has just given me a task which he knows is a bit too much for someone who just started, but I want to show him that I will find the answers and with your help guys I hope I do it, at the end of the day that's is how I'll learn things by trying to find the answers.

    Ok, in about a week or two he have to install a Chinese type gas wok cooker in a restaurant, basically he have to replace the old one, so he showed me the cooker and said this to me:

    1. Ok, take a closer look at the cooker and tell me if you think there is anything wrong with the plumbing?

    2. Then he said: Ok we have a 15mm water and a 22mm gas pipes that are currently connected to the existing old cooker. You need to tell me what parts/components do we need to connect the new cooker (it's not brand new actually, it's reconditioned)?

    So first I looked at the cooker's plumbing underneath and I have to say them small tubes look a bit untidy, I've looked at the joints and most of them have the jointing compound, although some of hem feel a bit loose. First when I looked at the valve I thought I would need a 28mm to 22mm coupling reducer, but on the actual valve it says 1" and when I measured it inside it was almost 30mm internal diameter, so I guess the 28mm coupling won't work, although I have looked everywhere and can't find 30mm to 22mm reducer?

    Please take a look at the images on the address blow where you'll get the idea of what exactly I am talking about.

    http://www.hthweb.com/cooker

    I would highly appreciate if somebody can give me advice on that.

    Many thanks.

    P.S. I'll be ok with the water connections, but puzzled with the gas.
     
    Adam Growden, May 3, 2015
    #1
  2. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Screwfix Select

    Hi
    That instalation is going to be classed as a comercial catering instalation which is in itself a specialised field of gas work and needs to be installed by someone withe the apropiate qualification which I assume your mentor has.
    All those tubes you are seeing are fine, the thicker ones look like 8mm which is the gas supply to the burners and your right about the jointing compound, they are factory fitted and should have been tested. The other slightly smaler wires are for the Thermocouple, that is the device which keeps the burner alight. It is a safety device, should for any reason the burner blow out, the thermocouple shuts off the gas. It is also the reason you have to hold in the control knob when lighting the burner, the thermocouple has to warm up to send a signal to the thermo electric valve sited in the control knob.
    The fitting you will need to conecct to the isolatoion valve is a male 28mm to 1'' iron to copper coupling, then reduce from 28mm to 22mm.
    http://www.screwfix.com/p/yorkshire-endex-male-coupling-n3-22mm-x/43993
    You will also need to be aware of the ventilation requirements as it is classed as a flueless appliance, this is the case for all cookers both domestic and commercial.
    Assuming that this appliance is being installed in a comercial property there will be other considererations like ventilation interlocks, etc. I dont have a catering qualification so cant go into any depth.
    Hope that is of some help and good luck in the industry.
    I like the way your mentor is making you find things out for yourself good way to learn.:)
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2015
    Dave does Gas, May 3, 2015
    #2
    FatHands and KIAB like this.
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Best way working with a old school tradesman,in my opinion.
     
    KIAB, May 3, 2015
    #3
  4. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member


    Hi, thanks for the reply, I really appreciate that. Is there not a 1" to 22mm reducing fitting? So that I would avoid an extra fitting? The 1" would go straight into the valve and then the 22mm pipe into the other end?

    Thanks.
     
    Adam Growden, May 3, 2015
    #4
  5. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    KIAB, May 3, 2015
    #5
  6. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member

    With this fitting I understand you have to screw it first (1" male side) to the valve and then solder on the spot the 22mm copper that would go into the other end (the female side)

    Is there such 22mm to 1" but male to male? So that the 1" male goes into the valve and the 22mm copper is screwed with a compression fitting to the other side rather than solder. I am thinking in case the cooker has to me moved or disconnected? Because with this fitting you still need to use another screw on/ compression type fitting in order to move the cooker if you have to.

    ???
     
    Adam Growden, May 3, 2015
    #6
  7. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    KIAB, May 3, 2015
    #7
    Adam Growden likes this.
  8. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member

    Adam Growden, May 3, 2015
    #8
  9. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Sorry, but I don't do gas, so can't comment, me would prefer end feed, but Dave or someone else who does gas will put you right.
     
    KIAB, May 3, 2015
    #9
  10. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Screwfix Select

    If you want to make it a removable then you will have to fit a small section of pipework before the isolation valve as you will need to fit something like this in-between the isolation valve and the cooker.
    http://brasscomponents.co.uk/brass-union/
    Dont forget its the isolation valve that shuts off the gas so you can move the appliance.
    As for comercial cookers I dont know if they have to be rigid fix of if a flexible cooker hose can be used, if they can then then that would be the best solution. Having said that I do know that the commercial catering hoses are made to a different spec to domestic ones.
    So for a flexible fit you will need something like this

    http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/acatalog/Dormont_1__M_x_F_x_1000mm_Catering_Gas_Hose.html

    Or going for a rigid fix from the cooker 1" to 22mm female iron to copper - short bit 22mm tube - 3/4' to 22mm male iron to copper - 3/4' brass union -3/4' to 22mm male iron to copper - 22mm compression isolation valve - then 22mm tube back to the gas supply.
    Hope that makes sense.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2015
    Dave does Gas, May 3, 2015
    #10
  11. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member


    Hi Dave, thanks for this, but what about the below fitting, this seems to me like a simple solution, by using just this fitting:

    http://www.leagrave.net/product/30128/compression_male_adaptor_22mm_to_1_/
     
    Adam Growden, May 3, 2015
    #11
  12. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Screwfix Select

    That will work but how do you you isolate the gas from the appliance without turning all the gas off.
    The way you have the appliance now with the isolation valve as the last fitting from the meter you can only turn the cooker off you cant disconect
    In an ideal world you should be able to do both which is what the union fitting allows or if possible the flexiable hose.
     
    Dave does Gas, May 4, 2015
    #12
    Adam Growden likes this.
  13. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member

    Sorry, I forgot to mention that there is another valve somewhere in between the gas meter and the cooker where the gas can be turned off. If that's the case, then do you think this fitting could be the answer:

    http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Male-Iron-Coupler-22-x-25mm-Pack-2/p/421601

    Some others are suggesting that the 22mm pipe is not big enough to supply and has to be redone to 28mm all the way back to the meter, but the existing cooker has been running on 22mm for many years.
     
    Adam Growden, May 4, 2015
    #13
  14. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Screwfix Select

    That fitting would be ideal. As for the supply size you would need to check the manufacturers instructions but as a rule if its a 28mm inlet then the supply should be the same size.
     
    Dave does Gas, May 4, 2015
    #14
    Adam Growden likes this.
  15. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member

    Well I've got people telling that this fitting is for water, I honestly cannot find anywhere on the internet someone explaining in plain language the difference between gas and water fixings, I am sure this fitting is ok for the gas as you've said.
     
    Adam Growden, May 4, 2015
    #15
  16. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Screwfix Select

    Its fine for gas, there are water fittings that are no good for gas like flex hoses, ballofix valves,etc. but that is a compression fitting which complys to the relevent British Standard.
     
    Dave does Gas, May 5, 2015
    #16
    Adam Growden likes this.
  17. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member

    Last edited: May 5, 2015
    Adam Growden, May 5, 2015
    #17
  18. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    They are both copper to irons, this phase means copper (metric copper pipe size) to iron (BSP imperial pipe size) BSP or iron threads are tapered, most compression copper to irons have parallel threads,
     
    G&W Plumbing & Heating, May 5, 2015
    #18
    Adam Growden likes this.
  19. Adam Growden

    Adam Growden New Member

    Hi thanks for the reply, so for my task any of those two can be used?
     
    Adam Growden, May 5, 2015
    #19
  20. G&W Plumbing & Heating

    G&W Plumbing & Heating Active Member

    The correct way by the book for gas pipe sizing is to do the math, this is KW, pipe length, fittings used & material
     
    G&W Plumbing & Heating, May 5, 2015
    #20
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