Installing new radiator onto new wall 60kgs

No.
Presumably you are dabbing onto block/brick so you should drill deep enough and use screws long enough to fix into the block. However putting adhesive behind where the brackets will go is a sound theory as it will prevent the plasterboard being deformed when you tighten the screws up.

 

Would suggest that you pack out between PB and wall with plenty of adhesive, go bigger than the actual rad brackets and use a solid bed of adhesive

Still wouldn't advise on fixing into the adhesive, this solid bed is there to stop the PB bowing in when tightening the fixings

Drill through PB and adhesive into block wall. Use decent plugs , look at Fischer high performance nylon plug, say size 10. Drill neat. Correct size hole an push plug through hole into wall. Coach screws are good for this as you can wind them in with a socket /

 

dan, let me explain to you my theory of stiction, you've heard of friction, friction is what stops a car , the pads or shoes grips the disc and the power of friction brings the car to a halt, once the car is halted and you keep the brakes on that's STICTION,
now you can use stiction to hold your rad backets up just by making sure the surface of the rad bracket is held hard up to the plaster board by just 2 screws, whether they're in the block or toggles it doesnt matter as long as they keep the two surfaces to gether, the screws don't hold the rad up they just squeeze the surfaces together and stiction keeps the rad up,

don't believe? it can be proven by taking an old rad off, unscew the screws and the bracket wont fall till you free it from stiction by hitting with a hammer or levering it away,

if you use adiesive stiction won't form,

 

seriously a brown plug with a 3 inch screw works fine, i've fitted fousands,

 

Stiction might be fine to hold the rad to the plasterboard but what will hold the plasterboard to the wall lol!

 

Frame fixings are for fitting timbers to walls etc,no good for rad brackets,just use normal plugs and screws of a descent length.

 

Hi Dan.

I have found such frame fixings to be surprisingly soft - very easy to round off the heads when they need a really good tightening. And, yes, that's with a well-fitting bit.

As I understand it, these are designed for easy fixing of window frames, so they don't need pulling particularly tight. Personally, I'd rather use any of SF's normal wood screws and plastic plugs for this job.

With countersunk heads, you should ideally use cup washers too, or else the heads can partly 'sink' into the bracket slot.

As said above, you'll need plenty of 'dab' to support the plasterboard from being crushed/bent inwards. And as said above, the dab itself will add little to the grip!

It should be fine, though; drill a neat, crisp hole the right size for the plug right through the p'board, dab and bricks. Make sure you have a good couple of inches depth in the solid bricks themselves (this will ultimately depend on chosen screw length, of course - allow a good quarter-inch+ extra depth. Blow out the debris, and tap in your plug making sure it's nicely into the block tho' not at the very bottom of the hole.

Alternativefixingnce you mark where your brackets are going, you could mount a couple of timber battens to screw these brackets to. Choose them to be roughly the combined depth of the dab and p'board (doesn't really matter if it's a few mm thicker or thinner), place them in position, draw around them crisply, and cut away the p'board with a Stanley knife. Score into the dab and chip away with a chisel.

Drop in your wood blocks, drill through and screw to the brickwork with plugs - avoiding where the rad bracket screws will go!

A wee bit of filler around the edge, and screw on your rad brackets. You won't notice these sunken blocks behind the mounted rad.

 

just dab the wall arounf the bracket area, use 3 " x 10 or 3" x 12 screws and plugs.