Internal stone wall

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Marbles, May 10, 2016.

  1. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    I have had to removed the plaster from an internal stone wall for drying purposes ,I should now like to apply a damp proof render or is it tanking to it .
    Can anyone advise please ?

    Also after this I should like to affix a battoned frame to install insulation and then a foil backed plasterboard before skimming .

    Seems logical Does anyone know if the battons can be fixed with adhesive of any kind as my wall is solid stone ?
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    What was the cause of wall being wet,does back on to the exterior, ground floor, basement & why do you need to insulate when a internal wall unless exterior other side.

    If above ground, I would have a look at 'Dryrods': http://www.dryrods.com/
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2016
  3. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    The wall in question is west facing ,first floor of a mid stone terrace the wall is solid 16 inches thick . It seems it has been damp for a while .
    I noticed some dripping from the corner of the ceiling and had an assesor come . It seems the gutters are stone and lead lined and very shallow as probably not much rainfall back in 1840 .There was a build up in the gutters and in came the water .

    I thought insulation would be good as there is no cavity .

    I have had a de hummidifier in and a fan , the chap from the drying company said I should remve the paper and plaster to as it was soft .
     
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Have you had the the gutters sealed,lead does deteriorate over time,joints split, I would remove the plaster & let the wall breathe for a couple of months, before taking any action.

    How long has it been drying out, with walls 16", it will take time.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2016
  5. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    The wall has not had long .
    Could I then render ? Can batons be stuck on ? please .


    The gutters have been inspected and seem ok , though the apeture of the hole which leads to the downpipe is about 40mm , I am getting this widened to approx 125mm and downpipe to fit in July .the lead will be uplifted and replaced .
     
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    You shouldn't need to render once the wall has dried out, but it would be pointless to render & dryline the wall trapping in moisture, which would then caused damp & mould, the wall is stone, it needs to breathe & dry out.
     
  7. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    Might seem silly ,but how would I know when it has dried out ? by one of those damp detection meters ?
     
  8. KBJ

    KBJ Active Member

    16" is a pretty thick wall and because of its thermal mass, will generally stay colder than the room temperature. If you want to insulate and render it, use breathable wool board (I have used these very successfully: http://www.anglialime.com/products/insulation-reinforcement/savolit-plus ) re-point it with lime and use a lime render/plaster to finish. If you baton it and use Portland/Gypsum you will be making a rod for your own back as it will just cover the problem up rather than rectifying it. Damp meters are a waste of money, fix the issue by removing the cause of the damp and allow the wall to dry out - which might take a while, then use porous materials sympathetic to the construction and you will have no further problems with damp.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016
    Marbles and KIAB like this.
  9. Hi Marbles.

    What do you mean by 'internal stone wall'? Do you mean the internal face of an external wall, or is it a fully internal wall?

    And how old is your house?

    Anyhoo, take care as if this is an old wall which naturally took up moisture from t'ground and expelled it as vapour from both sides of the wall, then sealing one side (or both...) could well cause long-term problems.

    Worth having a look at this recent thread: http://community.screwfix.com/threads/lime-plaster.177814/

    There are mentions there of insulating plaster/render which will add a good degree of insulation value to your house (if this is an 'external' wall...) whilst still allowing it to breath.
     
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  10. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    This is so helpful and something to think on about as the wall dries
    I like the idea of the lime plaster with glass in acting as insulation and the surface area isnt that large so keeping the cost down
    All I need is a decent plasterer !
     
  11. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    Oh I did mean to say the property is 1840 made of Kerridge Stone and I refer to the inside surface of an external wall ,
     
  12. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Adds character to a old place lime plastered walls.:)

    But,that wall will take some time to dry,if it's been soaked by a leaking gutter.

    Might find a lime plasterer close to you here.

    http://www.buildingconservation.com/directory/prodlist.php?category=Plasterers,+lime

    http://www.theheritagedirectory.co.uk/product.asp?prodid=213
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016
    Marbles likes this.
  13. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    Many Thanks .
    I am very pleased I came acroos this site forum .
     
  14. 1840? Niiiice.

    I don't know if I'd have actually done it, but whilst sis was seriously considering the old stone cottage I mentioned before - which needed complete renovation - I was imagining re-plastering the inside walls by hand.

    I mean, really by hand - laying on the ThermoPor with gloved hands, so's the shapes of the stones were followed. Looked good in my head, but would probably have turned oot a complete mess...
     
  15. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Hard on the back, job for a youger peep...:p
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  16. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    You are talking about the internal side of an external wall.

    Before rendering as the others have mentioned you need to let the wall dry out - this can take several months. To help this you need to check out the outside levels. These need to be at least 150mm below the floor surface or any damp proof course. The damp proof course may be something like a copper strip, tar paper or line of slate. If there is none of these visible you need to get one fitted before rendering.

    If you don't want to go down the render route you may want to consider a metal stud work wall which will be quite thin and will leave an air gap to keep the wall ventilated. These are cheap and easy to install with the plasterboard screwed directly to the metal studs. You can incorporate insulation as well. The attraction of the metal channels is that it is much easier to get the walls plumb and square than using battens on a wobbly stone surface.
     
  17. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    Not sure what you are talking about sospan please expand .
     
  18. Marbles

    Marbles Member

    I have removed the old plaster to find a grey mortar quite solid should this stay and be brushed or does it not matter at all ?
     
  19. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    You fix channels to the floor and ceiling then clip in the vertical channels and screw them together. You get an air gap between the back of the channel and the wall. Insuation can be placed within the thickness of the channel and plasterboard (or insulated PB) screwed to the face.


    You upload_2016-5-11_23-32-5.png
     
  20. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    is it mortar or cement ?

    Removng it really depends on what is betwen the stones again lime or cement ?
     

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