Start in the corner furthest away from where you want to finish. Wickes flooring is laid with the label on top (there is some printing showing which way up as well if the label is missing). Arrange the boards so that when you get to the end of the run the offcut can be used to start the next run aiming for a staggered joint of at least 300mm. I work with the tongue facing towards me. I lay the last two runs by cutting to size and then lowering them into place together (raised along the joint in the middle) so that as they drop into place the tongue and groove lock together. I screw a couple of temporary handles onto the board so that I've got something to hold as I lower/force them together I tend not to screw any down at first in case a slight adjustment is required for square. I mark where the joists are though on the edge of the board so that I know where to put screws when I do come back to it. I only use Spax flooring screws nowadays - jolly expensive but that's what my clients are told and they've never questioned it. I mark and label all services that I'm covering onto the boards as they're laid. Hope this helps. Willy.
Stack it up the sides of the skip which will allow you to get more waste, as well as the chipboard in the skip. Then go to a good timber merchants and buy timber floor boards.you will then have a decent job.
All of the above but I also pu glue to both joists and tongues and always have tonge and groove finish on a joist
In my opinion it is an inferior product and inferior finish to any job. A timber floor is a far superior job.
To stop the boards moving and creaking, I have seen gripfil used to stick them down to the joists before nailing.