Joining worktops

PVA, though some use clear sealant with a little colourfill uppermost on the join.

 

clear silicine on laminates
PVA on solid wood tops, sanded to finish.

 

"clear silicine on laminates
PVA on solid wood tops, sanded to finish. "

Hear hear....

Silicone gives you a chance to adjust the level down the length of the joint with a hammer and block of wood, and when it sets seals the joint perfectly.

I've been back to a couple of my kitchens 5 years on to do alterations, and after taking the bolts out the worktop snapped before the joint failed when removing the tops!

Cheers, Simes.

 

PVA on solid wood tops, sanded to finish.

You should never glue a joint on a soild top it will prevent movement and could lead to cracking/distortion

A bit of silicon is OK

 

I always use cascamite glue (powder) you seem to get longer to work with it than P.V.A,but be quick when weathers hot.

 

will silicone expanded the biscuits?

 

I think the idea of the biscuits is to help with aligning the two sides of the joint. I don't use them myself because unless the slot cutting is absolutely perfect the biscuits will actually prevent the two parts from lining up properly
Best not to use them so that you can knock the high side down (carefully!) after the bolts have started to close the joint up
Silicone is good as a sealant/adhesive but is quite thick and can make it more dificult to close the joint. I use PVA now

 

On a laminate worktop I used PVA on the underside edge with clear silicon on the topside edge, the idea being to provide a strong joint in shear ( PVA ) and a waterproof seal at the exposed edges ( silicon ). After 2 years the joint is still perfectly aligned with no signs of swelling and it's located next to a sink.