Jointing worktop near sink

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by BigRed1984, May 26, 2015.

  1. BigRed1984

    BigRed1984 New Member

    Hi all, new on the forum today, posting this both on here and diynot.com, been using both for years for advice etc. Have a question regarding jointing near a sink and one regarding sinks themselves. If anyone has the time to read the essay below and maybe chuck me a response if I am very lucky, it would be greatly appreciated.

    Essentially our sink needs to be placed in an awkward position, for various reasons which I wont bore you guys and gals with, it absolutely cant go anywhere else and has to be orientated with the drainer close to the wall near a joint......... The kitchen will be a small "L" shaped kitchen with runs of worktop approx 2.5m in either direction running at near a right angle to one another. We are going to use laminate worktop, most likely Duropal in the TC finish. The sink is a standard single bowl stainless with drainer.

    The issue comes with the joint. Essentially the sink is going to be placed right beside the joint (I know the joint will need to be as waterproof as possible therefore sealed correctly, absolutely cant leave wet things on it and dry as quickly as possible when it does get wet) which will be a butt and scribe joint. The joint will basically run alongside the front/inline with the front of the drainer on the female worktop side. I know this isn't ideal but having spoke to quite a few people there doesn't seem to be another way.

    Obviously once the sink is cut out, the drainer area will be cut out too and will leave us with a very narrow piece of worktop on the female side to bolt to the male side. We have had a couple carpenters out and after some humming and hawing all of them thought that it would be possible to get one bolt on at the back near the wall, use a piece of mdf in underneath and screw either side of the joint to reinforce the glued joint and transfer that load to the ground/unit. I have seen this described online too as it happens with some people saying its OK, and others saying that it will be so monumentally bad that the four horsemen of the Apocalypse will turn up and bring along a friend to act as a fifth. Well, maybe a bit of an exaggeration there but you get what I mean.


    Should you still be awake and able to decipher the above, my questions are:

    1: Does jointing the worktop in such a manner sound OK (I know its not ideal)?

    2: Are there any sinks (preferably stainless) which don't need to have the drainer area cut out? In other words sinks which can sit on the worktop if you have a hole for the bowl only (I had heard that there are some like this with threaded bits on the drainer, bolted underneath and therefore not needing to be cut out)
     
  2. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    With the sink out, would it not be possible to adapt the bolts using a flat plate on the inside of the narrow bit and bolting through into the return worktop?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  3. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    image.jpg
    Here's a kitchen I did earlier this year for a renter. Possibly similar, although I think your sink is going to be even more inset and the opposite way round from what you describe.

    I didn't think I would be able to get a bolt in nearest to the corner from the initial drawing, but managed to offset the jig. 2 slots routed out with the jig as normal. Corner bolt slot moved closer to the male join and after some careful measurement it all worked fine. Not ideal, but this was a tiny kitchen which had to include the washing machine and a fridge freezer. What you can't see is the doorway to a pantry to the right of the washer, hence the tight layout. The CU was in there at almost floor level which is why the white goods had to be incorporated into the main area.

    If you must go with your design, then get the longest run of your sink as tight to the wall as poss. You may need to cut into the back of the carcass to do this so may need to brace it lower down to give it a bit of strength back.

    The other problem is that with the amount of material removed, your work top will be quite weak and could break during the fitting.

    Cut female joint, cut male joint in your adjoining piece of worktop. Mark sink cutout. Offset and router out slots for bolts. Test fit tops making sure you can get access to tighten bolts up from underneath. Cut out hole for sink but not all the way round. Leave a bit to cutout when your top is back in place on the carcass. You really don't want to remove the worktop at this point so a case of planning ahead!

    Off course if you can get a sink that doesn't require s cutout for the drainer, then easy peasy :)
     
  4. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    image.jpg
    Another perspective.
     
  5. BigRed1984

    BigRed1984 New Member

    Thanks for the replies. Thats a fair point Handyandy but there would as I would be using a standard stainless sink if I were to do that, it would still mean the drainer section would at the very least need to be recessed, therefore weakening the joint.

    @ CGN, thanks for the pic, thats pretty much exactly what we are doing except yeah our drainer will be on the opposite side so closer to the wall. There is actually more material left on the female side of the joint you have there than I thought there would be which is encouraging, I assume you kept the back of the sink tighter to the wall than usual? Ihave been told that such a joint can warp when tightenin the bolts due to the thinner female side but obviously yours didnt.

    The joint will be over a space where the washing machine will sit so I will support it with timbers underneath, therefore access to the joint wont be a problem at all but thanks for pointing that out. I would be worried though as you point out that it may break during fitting. Thanks for a detailed reply and the pics, very helpful. I think I will put up a thread asking specifically about sink needing no drainer cutout in the heading and see what I get back. Failing that I will take your advice on board, thanks.
     
  6. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I had to set the sink back to clear the hinge post but went as far as I could without inhibiting the tap plumbing. I didn't cut the back out i
    0f the carcass in this instance as I could just about make it work. I did make a couple of cutouts in the back horizontal rail to allow me to get onto the sink fixing clamps with a 'wobble' bit in my driver. A bit ticklish but got there in the end after a bit of cursing :)

    There is another way to avoid the drainer cutout if you're really keen and that is to router out a slot to allow the flange to sit into. You can then use a hole saw to allow the claps to come down under the top. Probably not worth the bother, but just a thought.
     
  7. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    "There is another way to avoid the drainer cutout if you're really keen and that is to router out a slot to allow the flange to sit into. You can then use a hole saw to allow the claps to come down under the top. Probably not worth the bother, but just a thought."

    I've done a few kitchens over the years. I think this is what I would do, depending on how far the drainer extends. If it's just 1 of 3 clamp bolts, I would maybe go the move-one-clamp route, if 2 of 3 I would do the above I think. The idea of trying to get a nice solid joint with almost no material left doesn't sound good, and it wouldn't be very strong. If you do rout out a groove for the drainer flange and drill access holes for the clamps, don't forget to seal the cut edges :)
     
  8. BigRed1984

    BigRed1984 New Member

    Thanks again for the advice lads, if I were fitting the worktop myself I would probably end up doing exactly that. Have suggested it to the carpenter who I think will end up jointing the worktop but he didnt seem to keen on it, and wouldnt like to have to pay someone to spend that much time. Found a black placticky looking Franke which would work ok with a similar method to that, uses bolts rather than clips but again would be a good bit of routing work.

    I have actually been trying to get my head around a single bowl without drainer and then just using a kindve portable drainer thing. Im still not sold on it but would solve the problem entirely. Sent out around 10 emails today to various manafacturers asking my question above, only Hafele have replied so far, a NO hahaha I found an Astracast one which is unfortunately plastic but fits the bill perfectly, full single sink and drainer. Unfortunately its very badly reviewed and when I went to b&q........ both the single and 1 1/2 bowl versions, were lieing on a rack and actually already badly warped....... So I dont know about their quality.

    Think I will either chance the slim joint with a normal single bowl/drainer stainless or look into a standalone bowl (not finding any that arent silly money) so fingers crossed, thanks again.
     
  9. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

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