Hi, firstly thanks for any replies or advise given. Im fitting a kitchen, basically competent in wiring etc, just looking for advice on fused spurs There are various built in appliances, dishwasher, fridge, freezer, oven, extractor and washer. The washer & dishwasher are on separate rings, one's in an extension, so there are not 2 heaters on the same ring. Question is, i'm happy to have switched fused spurs above each appliance, next to current dbl sockets. Can i take a spur out of the socket, through the fused switch and run a 2.5 t&e down to an outlet point near the appliance, either behind or next to, depending on the depths of the appliances? Ive read allsort's of conflicting comments. Do i cut the plug off and hard wire to an outlet point or use a single plug socket underneath, i guess in an ajoining unit so the plug fuse can be got to. I would still use an over worktop fused switch for emergency shut-off. Ive also read sockets must be on walls not units, but also seen disagreements to this Any comments appreciated Adrian
Fair point, but after reading other forums on here, various electricians / kitchen fitters claim some all of or non of the are ok, im just asking what would suit my situation.
Electrics in kitchens and bathrooms should be done by a competent person, you said you was competent then asked how... That's like me saying I'm competent building extensions but how do I lay the foundations? if I asked a question like that it would clearly show that I'm not competent because I'd have failed from the start.
I've seen in done all of those ways, 1 Down from spur in 2.5mm to trailing socket under plinth. 2 Same but to socket on wall behind, not ideal because it cuts down on available depth. 3 same lead but to an adjacent cupboard. I usually run to trailing socket under plinth, gives more flexibility and you don't need to hack holes etc in cupboards.
Hello, I also usually run to trailing socket under plinth, gives more safety. I have also some electronic products. I hope you will like it. * Edited by screwfix peter due to unsuitable weblink
It's all personally preferece but if your ripping out the kitchen and starting again I would put in a seperate radial for all your white goods and leave the ring alone. Also the "emergency switch" thing isn't needed so you don't need loads of fcu units at worktop level if you don't want them, just a switch on the socket outlet would do the job. Anyone kicking off about this, what happens to sockets behind large items of furniture, do you put in fcu for that?
I personally prefer to put sockets in cupboards adjacent to or underneath the appliance. Still accessible without the ugly FCU above worktop. lf they want switches above worktop then a bank of 20A DP grids looks the best. click mode do a range where you can fit 6 DP switches in a 2G backbox.
Sockets in cupboards every time. So much easier, fused spurs look ugly and just bump up the cost in labour and materials, especially if chrome and loads of them. A fused spur only isolates the live conductor so is pointless if the appliance has an neutral earth fault. If you want to isolate above use dp swith or grid with socket below. Not always possible with integrated appliances because of room. Hope this helps but must say although you probably think you're ok doing this work you should get someone who's registered.
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