Kitchen radial circuit on 2.5mm and 32A RCBO - Is that OK?

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Canefrog, Apr 13, 2013.

  1. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    Hi all.  This is my 1st post here.

    I'm having my kitchen rewired and am looking for a 2nd opinion that my electrician is doing it right.

    He has fitted a new radial circuit for the kitchen sockets.  The cable is labelled 2 x 2.5 + 1.5mm, which I assume means 2.5mm cross sectional area for each of positive and negative and 1.5 for the earth.  The kitchen has a floor area of 9 sqm.  There is a very short run to the consumer unit.  The consumer unit was already in place and uses RCBOs (unusual for a domestic install?)  He has fitted a new 32A RCBO for this new circuit.

    I've been reading up on this stuff all morning.  My understanding is that a radial circuit on 2.5mm would be better on a 20A RCBO.  I also think 20A is too low anyway.  What happens when diswasher, washing machine and kettle are all heating water at the same time?  Should I be concerned?

    Also, the new oven and hob total 8.9kW.  This are supplied by the single existing 4mm cable (don't know if ring or radial circuit).  They are isolated together by 1 switch which also has a plug socket.  My understanding is that this is acceptable based on the diversity rule:

    Max current for hob and cooker combined = 37A
    Subtract 10A  = 27A
    27 x 0.3 = 8.1A
    8.1 + 10 = 18.1A
    Add on 5 for socket 18.1 + 5 = 23.1A

    So 4mm is fine?  Perhaps not a lot of headroom, but acceptable?  It is protected by its own 32A RCBO.

    Hopefully I'm worrying about nothing, but if someone could please put my mind at rest, I'd be most grateful!

    Cheers!
     
  2. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    Hob is 6.6kW
    Oven in 2.3kW
     
  3. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    No, the radial circuit in 2.5mm is not ok on a 32amp breaker, it should be in 4mm. (or fit a 20amp breaker)
    Th cooker circuit will be a radial and will be ok although it's on the limit for a 32amp breaker, 6mm cable would have been better but as it was exising no real problem.
     
  4. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    Thanks for that seneca!!

    I'm not looking forward to telling him he's got to dig out all his cables on Monday morning.  They've all been cemented over.  I just hope there's no more wall chasing :(  Should I be getting the cement out ASAP??  Some of it may not have completely set.

    What if he argues that he can change the breaker to a 20, rather than changing the cables to 4mm?   I wouldn't be happy with that, but would it be a valid argument from his point of view?
     
  5. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    In practice i'd say the 20amp breaker would be ok although it's a poor design. You mentioned cables cemented in, hopefully it's plaster or bonding, cementing pvc cables in is not recommended. I've just installed a 20amp 2.5mm radial in a utility room, I gave that some thought as to whether it would be big enough but as there will only be a washing machine and a dryer in there and a socket for occasional use for an iron i'm quite happy with that one.
     
  6. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    He chased the walls (and some floor), laid the cables (grey PVC I believe) and then cemented over the top with the intention of then getting a plasterer in to make good.  The floor will be tiled.

    If the cement is acceptable (but not ideal), what if it's changed to a ring circuit instead?  That might be an easier solution.
     
  7. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    It will be the same amount of work really whether you replace the 2.5 with 4.0 or run another 2.5 alongside the existing cable and make it a ring. The ring might be a more convenient option for him as he's probably more likely to have a roll of 2.5 on the van than 4.0.
     
  8. harmonic

    harmonic Member

    WHen you say the cable is labelled were is it labelled is it on a certificate or wrapped around cable for identification,I would say not knowing the full story that you may have read it on the certificate in which case check the box which states ring circuit end to end if that is filled in the 32amp c/b is o/k I would say that as new rewrite of kitchen he has made a ring final If it was an alteration to save disruption he may be deviating from regs to provide you with a warm cable without c/b tripping on a 32 amp c/ b.
    The electrician must assume there could be in excess current in a kitchen and design for this knowing what equipment you have in the kitchen,if you were haveing a utility room with washing m/c etc he could run a 2,5 m/m radial for sockets for occasional use.

    Unfortunately you have also witnessed cement on cables are they sheathed in metal or not either way I have seen chases filled with concrete and then plastered over which is not correct

    best of luck seams like you know more than the spark on the regs were did you learn about diversity.
     
  9. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    Thanks for the advice Harmonic

    2 x 2.5 + 1.5mm is written on the cable itself (embossed in the PVC).  The diameter of the entire cable is a little under 10mm at its widest point.

    He did have metal sheaths/plates with him, but didn't use them (except maybe the floor).  I don't think he could get them into the chases that he cut.  He commented the walls are very hard (and he's not the first to say that).  Is the cementing very wrong and against regs, or is something that's acceptable when circumstances dictate, but not ideal?

    Someone who gave me a quote previously mentioned diversity, although I didn't really understand it until this morning.  I'm feeling a bit disappointed that I've had to learn about all this stuff.

    Thanks again!
     
  10. harmonic

    harmonic Member

    personnaly I think cement is not a big issue but when you say cement it has a corrosive aspect to it on PVC but it may be a type that is not I think like most electricians he wanted something quick and effective ,it may corrode over years but who knows if it will and how long it will take.

    As for the radial circuit if he down rated the rcbo to 20amp that would Comply for cable regs for protection of cable ,but unfortunate that the design is not good as the loading of the kitchen may put the rcbo in to a tripping area
     
  11. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    The original quote states 'supply 32amp rcbo for new circuit', so will be pursuing getting this fixed so suitable for 32amps, not 20.

    Not trying to pick holes in the work... but... about 5mm of the red pvc insulation of the positive 4mm cooker feed (slightly re-routed  original cable) is sitting proud of the cement used to fill the chased channel.  Should that be cause for concern, or will that be fine once skimmed over by the plasterer?
     
  12. harmonic

    harmonic Member

    THe double insulation should all be within the closures unless suitable mechanically protected but you may agree that utilising the old 4m/m cable this may be already this way when he arrived be carefully of your approach on this, priority is getting the quate via the 32amp breaker sorted if he made a slip up with his breaker size and fits 20 amp on the radial that would satisfy regs but that is not want you want ,talk to him and obtain his reasoning for only useing 27 amp rating cable which will take this current if not subject to constraints on grouping, thermal effects which will down rate current cable will take.As only short run and c/b in place this should not be much of an issue but only certain sparks would bother with this when designing a circuit.
     
  13. harmonic

    harmonic Member

    JUst a note the isolator for oven and hob is o/k and as long as it is local and not within 300 m/ m of the hob or sink but that may not be bractical think you have plenty to discuss go easy with him as we are all human and learning all the times the regs are non statutory
     
  14. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    If the CU is so close, why can you not just have a second run of cable back to the CU? - it's a kitchen, there is bound to be a route.

    Are you actually sure this is the case?  Is he perhaps doing a ring circuit and you have not realised?  Perhaps he is using an old originally installed cable and has just run one new one to the CU?

    Is there for sure a socket with just one single 2.5mm cable in it?  And no other sockets with three 2.5mm cables in it?

    4mm would be fine for a cooker, assuming a clipped direct/buried in wall type run.  6mm would be a better choice (is there a chance it is?)
     
  15. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    Again, thanks for all the valuable advice

    I do think it's a radial circuit.  There is for sure a socket with a single 2.5, but haven't checked for one with 3x 2.5 cables in it.  I'll do that now.  I did consider the possibility that he may have used existing cabling for the return back to the CU, but can't see anything.  Besides, the existing cabling exists for the ring around the rest of the flat, so I think that would probably rule it out.

    I'm not an electrician, but looking at it myself from a practical point of view, I do think the easiest solution would be the 2nd run back to the CU (assuming definitely radial at the moment)

    Don't worry, I will try to get all this sorted amicably.  I'm not going to jump in with guns blazing!
     
  16. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    I certainly wouldn't be pulling cables out at this stage - Adding the return leg would be the best option, and this can be surface mounted (clipped) to the wall, below counter height.

    Lets have some photos - we like photos ;)
     
  17. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    Yeah, I know, photos would be useful and interesting :).  I know I've not mentioned any names, but it just feels like a step too far until I've discussed it with the electrician.  Lets see how that pans out and will go from there.

    There is a double socket with 3 x 2.5 cables, but 1 of the 3 goes to a fused spur(?)  (fused switch above worktop, socket below) which then goes no further.  I'm guessing that has no bearing on whether or not it's radial or ring, but happy to be corrected.
     
  18. harmonic

    harmonic Member

    IT would have no bearing on the situation as it could be spur of a ring or simply another point of a radial,wait till tomorrow please give feedback on the situation

     
  19. Canefrog

    Canefrog New Member

    Have spoken to my electrician who says 2.5mm is fine because it's less than 50m (don't know if he meant cable length or floor area).

    I spoke to another electrician on phone and said no way to a 32A breaker on a 2.5mm radial

    In my mind, I can't see how a 32A breaker can protect a cable rated for 27A (under ideal circumstances).

    Regardless of anything else though, my electrician has politely agreed to change it to a ring circuit, so I'll let it rest.  I'm just glad I spotted this before fitting my new kitchen!

    A big thanks to everyone for their advice :)

    Will post a final update when the electrical work has been completed.
     
  20. Lectrician

    Lectrician Screwfix Select

    The on site GUIDE to BS7671 says 50m/sq for a 2.5mm 20amp radial, 75m/sq for a 4mm radial and 100m/sq for a 2.5mm ring.  This is floor area served.


    However, you also have to take into account the anticipated loads, and it mentions kitchens and the like.

    A 20amp radial will cause you issues.

    I would create a ring - Surely it can't be too hard?  He's surely just being lazy, or doesn't want to back down now
     

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