Kitchen Upstands (Solid Oak)

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by DIYRich, Jan 9, 2017.

  1. DIYRich

    DIYRich New Member

    Hello Screwfix Community,

    I am installing upstands and have run into a bit of a problem. My walls have been plastered and are uneven. They have also been painted.

    I have tried gluing the upstands on and pressing very hard, but after 24 hours left to cure, it has just come away from the wall.

    The product used to glue was No More Nails Original.

    Can anyone provide any advice as to how to attach this securely? I have attached a picture which should hopefully help. Many thanks in advance.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Stixall :) run a pencil across the top of the upstand, then remove as much paint as poss below and scuff up with a Stanley knife. Get something heavy to hold them against the wall as the glue goes off.
     
    seen it all before likes this.
  3. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    It's failed cos you glued it to the fresh paint and not the plaster, do as CGN suggests, I would 5:1 PVA the wall and let dry prior to re gluing skirting back.
     
    CGN likes this.
  4. Buy a plug cutter and cut some plugs from a piece of scrap.
    Fix with plugs and screws to the wall and fill holes drilled in the oak with the plugs.
    Make sure you keep the grain the same way.
     
    CGN likes this.
  5. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    If you're using any grab adhesives, use ct1, at a tenner a tube it's pricey, but the best of the best in my experience. Pressing firm isn't good enough for these situations, you need to wedge the upstand in place and strut for 24hours. That said, you're using solid oak, which is a beautiful yet hateful material to install and maintain, oak moves with the temperature and humidity. I would look at either using an oak veneered upstand with adhesive (you'll also have more flex in this to wedge in place), or drill, counterbore, pellet and screw the solid oak to the wall, space the screws equally and fit the pellet with pva glue, and keep the grain running the same direction. Wait for glue to go off then trim pellets with a sharp chisel.
     
    CGN likes this.
  6. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Just saw previous replies, ******.
     
  7. DIYRich

    DIYRich New Member

    Thanks for the replies; think I might try as you all suggest, removing as much paint as possible, 5:1 PVA it, then try to glue it back. Only want to drill it as a last resort.

    Should I try to push it in the areas where it comes away from the wall while gluing? Only ask as when I last did that, it just sprung away from the wall as I removed them away...
     
  8. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    Put some screws in the back of it, leaving 20mm unscrewed. Place it against the wall to create a mark on the wall where the screwheads are. Drill the wall 25mm deep and a tad larger than the screwhead. Fill holes with glue. Push upstand to wall(screwheads into holes).

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  9. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Do a similar thing with end panels Handy if I have a lone end panel at the end of a run, say next to a washing machine and don't want to use L brackets. Gives it a bit of purchase into the floor :)
     
  10. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Scratch the area behind where you are sticking and use stixall
     
  11. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    How uneven is the wall ?

    If when you push the oak back you have some gaps more than a few mm you should sand the high spots down.

    Depending on your wood working skills you may want to consider fitting keyhole brackets or something like this on the back of the boards http://www.screwfix.com/p/flush-mounts-zinc-plated-35-x-37-x-3-75mm-10-pack/11423

    Remember to seal the edges of the upstand and where it meets the work top
     
  12. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    You have an end so can obviously slide the upstand into position. As sospan says, keyhole brackets. Do it right, do it once. Take a bit of marking up, measuring and cutting, but will certainly keep that upstand against the wall. And, if you ever need to remove it, it will come off again. For a really tight job, carefully recess the bracket into the inner face, if you surface mount it the upstand will be off the wall by the thickness of the bracket.
     

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