What can I replace this clock with . Help please Cos it's turning itself on and off ticking loud and boiler doing the same
I'd have thought any 2-channel programmer. Most will have an electronic LCD clock. http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-m... and Cooling&gclid=COSCgLrexsQCFfQatAodJ3oA6g looks good, tho' there are bound to be cheaper models out there like the 'Lifestyle' ones. Unlikely to be a straight swap, tho' - you will likely need to sort out which wire is which and where it goes on the new machine - before you start removing anything...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hortsmann-centaurplus-c27-programmer-with-li-ion-battery-back-up/68934 or http://www.screwfix.com/p/iqe-2-channel-7-day-time-control/79342 Check the specs of each, and come back when you've decided on one. We'll then try and sort out the change-over - but you'd need to be a safe fellow who knows a bit about leccy... Are you?
Bou bought the HorstMann one you requested and fitted it onto backplate already there . But doesn't fire up heating or water so think will need help fitting new back plAte
Thanks for the info in first place . Tried to read instructions which came with clock but to no avail. Any help would be welcome !! Thanks
It actually fitted the existing backplate? Blimey... Could you post a good close-up photo of the existing back plate, please?
TT, see that motorised valve near the floor in your 2nd photo, how many pipes go to it? On your system is it possible to have the CH running on its own, or does it also heat the hot water whenever the CH is on?
PLUMBERS! HELP! What kind of system does TT have? Is the how water cylinder supplied via the pump too? And then a valve opens to also supply the rad system when needed? If so, what prevents the hot cylinder taking most of the flow, a bit like a by-pass? Would this be wired like a gravity HW system?
It's a bodged S plan, there is no thermostatic control on the hot water, it would be wired similarly to a gravity system but the pump has to be included on the water side. He should also consider, dependant on boiler type pump overrun. It would not be a major job to upgrade it to a full S plan and may well be worth the OP considering having the hot water valve professionally fitted and wired.
The old clock still working at the moment . Thought it was a bit of a bodge as all house in cul de sac have different systems . Built by local Cowboys . What kind of brass we talking to rectify bodge ?? Or just retire new clock back plate in ? Cheers chaps for help
Since it's like a gravity HW system, there's a good chance that all your new programmer needs is for a small link (or switch) to be altered inside. Please have a look through your new instructions and look for 'Gravity Hot Water wiring' and see what's needed. The actual wiring of the back plate should hopefully not have to change.
Its not it has a pump and possibly pump overrun wired into it so by swithching to gravity wont work. The best thing the OP can do is have it upgraded to either Y or S plan its not a big job, 2 to 3 hours work plus parts, could all be done for under £300. If You go down this route you will have full thermostsic control of both water and heating, thereby saving money on not heating water to a higher temperature than you actually require.
Fair do's. But what I mean is, it could effectively be - wiring-wise - like a gravity system. If the pump is simply wired in parallel with the boiler so's it chust comes on every time the boiler does (no overrun), then there's every chance the old prog is wired like for a gravity system. In which case hopefully all TT would have to do is pull that wee blue link and fit the new one - and retire a safe distance... But, fully accept that it's currently a very crude setup so it's good for TT to know there is a better option there with a rough guide to the cost - and he can still use his new programmer - and it'll work fully . TT - how abouts a photo of your backplate?
Nicely positioned connector, TT, neatly hiding the wiring to terminals 1 and 2 . Are there any wires going to terms 1 and 2? Does your hot cylinder have a thermostat fitted to its side? Finally - have you tired removing that wee blue link on the Centaur C27? If not, try that, refit it and see it it now works.
what wee blue link ? is it on the inside of unit ? no thermostat on cylinder . when heating on water is on .
On the back of the C27 you should see a small blue link. From instructions I've read on t'net, it should be fairly obvious. Have a look through the instructions wot came with it. It might be all you need. Page 3 has never been so exciting... https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Horstmann/C21_I.PDF