Loft loading

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by schlafsack, Feb 4, 2014.

  1. schlafsack

    schlafsack New Member

    I'm guessing that this has probably been asked a million times....

    I'm planning on boarding my loft with screwed down 18mm chipboard for very light storage purposes. I've just measured the joists and I'm slightly concerned that they might not be up to the job.

    The house is a 1890 terraced house with a 40m2 loft space. The joists are 5x2" with a 12" spacing (50x127mm,300mm) and the maximum span is 148" (3.76m). This is the span between a central supporting beam and the front and rear walls. The ceiling underneath is the original lathe/plaster. Considering the span, Should these joists be able to support boards and light loads?
     
  2. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    In a word yes, what you need to be more worried about is electric cables, if any cables are inbetween the joists and are old, covering them with board may cause them to overheat and be a potential fire hazard, this also applys to insurlation covering old wiring aswell.
     
    FatHands likes this.
  3. 12" joist spacing is pretty close - nice. I reckon you could get away with a thinner - and lighter - board than 18mm, say 12mm. (Whether you can find something suitable is another issue...)
     
    FatHands likes this.
  4. LoftBoardingNW

    LoftBoardingNW New Member

    Always use 18mm interlocking loft panel flooring as its condensed particle board which is much stronger than ordinary chipboard.
    Always install at least 4"x2" joists on top and running opposite to your existing joists (at 600mm apart) to create an air gap to allow air to circulate under your floor and over your insulation.
    Do not squash your insulation or be tempted to remove it its just not done like that anymore. There are products such as LoftZone StoreFloor to create a raised platform up to 270mm high using a stilt and beam system. You can just use wood 4x2 beams and fasten across the truss of the roof if you have the span, but older houses tend to have less of a trussed roof than new houses so the StoreFloor is better for that sort of loft. New or old houses can benefit from this product. We have installed 100's of lofts with this system and can recommend it to DIYers as well as professional installers.





    Links deleted, by Screwfix Peter

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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 15, 2014
  5. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    More SPAM
     
  6. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    I couldn't afford to lose that much height in my loft, you'd need a ladder on a ladder just the get in the loft.:)
     
  7. LoftBoardingNW

    LoftBoardingNW New Member

    Mr Handyandy? what is this forum about? people needing advice, that's what I give. If you have nothing constructive to say then say nothing at all.

    Phil the paver? then unfortunately you cannot use this system but you can use wood and raise it 4" (100mm) by laying the new joists on top of the old cross ways. That's the correct and safest way to do it.
    The ladder fixes to a small (landing platform) or to the new boarded joists, which is lower than the storefloor. This is how we do it and we've done hundreds of them.
     
  8. ypt

    ypt New Member

    Hi,
    is £1500 a good price for boarding the loft? Surface area: 33sqm. Removing existing boarding. Then boarding on the top of insulation (insulation free provided by an independent company). Price includes fitting a loft ladder and making an entrance larger. Thank you in advance.

     

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