Long flexi tap connectors or copper pipe for shower

Flexi connectors sounds ok but they maybe too bendy in the wall and flap about like you mentioned. You could probably also use plastic pipe such as John Guest. I think Wickes sell in single strips and clip them to the wall under the bath. You may need an elbow at the bottom to get them horizontal again. I think its going to be hard to clip the upper parts of the pipe inside the stud wall if you don't want to make a hole.

You could make a small hole in the wall large enough for a pipe clip half way down between bar shower and bath. It will be tiled over anyway.

Maybe also worth considering a bar shower mount of some sort. They tend to hold the shower more solid against the tiled wall.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bristan-bar-valve-wall-mount-11-fixing-kit-chrome-plated/58495

http://www.wickes.co.uk/John-Guest-Speedfit-Plastic-Pipe-15mm-x-2000mm/p/421437

 

Here's a couple of videos you may find useful on YouTube for bat shower installs.

yes you can use compression fittings on plastic. Though i generally prefer to use copper and then convert to plastic onwards.





I have used the bar mounting kit you mentioned in your link above. You will still need to measure and level the mounts very carefully at 150cm centres. Some mounts are easier than other's especially if its already done for you such as some sort of back-plate.

It may also be worth checking where your timber studs are on the walls. Perhaps drill tiny 2mm or 3mm holes to find them. Cut your plaster back to the centre of this stud and it will be easier to replace afterwards even though its a bigger hole. Not sure if this will fall within your tiled area though.

There's many ways of patching plaster in a hollow wall/ceiling.

Here's a ceiling example with wooden batten. Same principle for wall.

 

i would not use flexis. they dont last that long!!!!! do it properly in copper. put new supplies from incoming side of bath isolators, cos you can isolate each supply seperatly.

 

Flex pipe also have a much smaller core, so flow rate will be impacted too

 

Just get a thermostatic bath/shower mixer and save yourself all the trouble.

Install an outside tap or something (that's if you haven't already got one) to justify buying your tools!

 

Y. Using a separate thermo mixer is a good solution. Some excellent quality bar mixers around at not too much money - look e.g. at Grohe. You can then use a simple bath mixer.

One thought - if you are going to use a thermo mixer you do need equal, or nearly equal, pressure in H&C. This may not be the case if you have mains cold and tank hot with a traditional boiler. Ideally you need either tank hot and tank cold, or a combi or system boiler which is essentially mains hot and mains cold. Check the pressure/flow specifications of any shower unit you are looking at.

 

Bit of a bodge to say the least...prob worth rectifying as part of your upgrades.

If I'm fitting a bar mixer onto a stud wall, then I like to put some ply behind the plaster board and screw it to the stud work. Nice and solid for the shower mounts that have been suggested and you can just use wood screws to affix them.
Is the area already tiled? If so and you don't want to disturb them, can you access the area from the rear and cut out a small rectangle of PB to allow access?
I'm usually tiling bathroom when doing this sort of work so I can cut out a rectangle of PB bathroom side and tile over when done. Regarding pipe work, use plastic as once you have a hole under the bath, you can easily feed the pipe in and through. Use a Speedfit elbow at the mixer and convert to copper for the tails coming through the wall into shower mounts. Below bath, use Speedfit connectors, copper pipe and flexi hoses for your taps. Will all be fine and easier if you haven't much plumbing experience.

 

those two valves are check valves not isolators.

 

What sort of plumber doesn't have a pipebender? even the mega cheap silverline ones do a reasonable job. No pride!

 

If you're having a shower over the bath then you really need to tile the wall/walls.

 

If using plastic from copper make sure you use the correct inserts as I've been to a house where the plumber didn't and they failed twice in 2 different places very very costly mistake

 

Yep...must use inserts on plastic
I've taken apart plenty of pipe work that hasn't used them though!!

 

Problem I came across was plastic into a metal isolator. Insert used was one with a rubber ring where as it should of been the plain insert without Learn something new everyday lol

 

Curious to know why you have rejected a bath filler with thermostated shower outlet? I have two of these in different properties and have been fine for many years...