I'm in the process of fixing the bathroom. I've taken off the old tiles and (rotten) plasterboard. The studs are mostly sound, but have some rot in them. I'm planning on using a rot treatment rather than replacing the whole wall, then putting up Aquapanel boards However, I'm concerned that the normal 39mm Aquapanel screws won't be long enough to get a good enough grip in the sound wood behind the surface damage. Can I just use long plasterboard screws instead? Or would some other screws make sense?
There are 55mm Aquapanel screws available, plus other cement board screws available, but long as you use a rust resistant screw not drywall screws, then any is ok i would think.. I use Reisser R2 screws, our host stock them,
By "sister", do you just mean screw some new studs into the side of the old ones? Or is it more complicated than that?
Before treating the timber or putting the panels on, spray the entire area with diluted bleach. This will kill off mold and any bacteria. leave the area to dry naturally. I would also treat all new timber even if it has been tanalised.
Thanks, making me much more confident about this job now The wall also has some insulation stuff in (I think 75mm earthwool). This is mostly fine, but is black on the surface in places. Should I replace that, or it just discoloured?
Earth wool isn't designed for locations like that. Just in case it is mold - put bleach on it first then bag it very carefully. Wear a mask. Yould would be better off with some Urethane based products like Cellotex and Kingspan or even big blocks of polystyrene at a push. Your local builders merchant or B&Q/Wickes stock them. Easily cut with a hand saw
You're all awesome, but a couple more newbie questions about sistering the studs: 1. Screws or pinkgrip/no more nails ? 2. Am I right that the point is to then attach the aquapanel to the new wood? Thanks
the idea is to beef up the ones that are damaged by the rot. The best way is to screw and glue them. Once these are in place screw the aquapanel to the battens
Clamp the two studs together & use Turbo Coach Screws, will really pull things up tight. No need for grip fill,but some will glue, just fix aquapanel to which stud is suitable, new one perferably. http://www.screwfix.com/p/turbocoach-coach-screws-yellow-zinc-plated-6-x-90mm-100-pack/46700
Agree with Sos to glue if using ordinary screws, but using Turbo Coach Screws are far superior, larger head, can't chew it up like a normal screw. I've use them in a larger size when sistering a 8x2 joist, very secure fixing.
Just want to say thanks to all. Those screws are fantastic! ...if you've got a powerful enough tool to drive them in My little electric screwdriver was not up to it at all, and even my mains-powered budget drill was struggling, but it got there. Really solid. I also treated myself to http://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-r210cms-210mm-single-bevel-compound-mitre-saw-110v/4235p which made cutting the studs much, much, easier. My top tip for cutting Cellotex is to use an old long-bladed non-serrated kitchen knife. It went through really easily with almost no dust/mess, just a lot of squeaking.
There are long scalloped jig saw blades (T313AW) made by Bosch that have that shape with no "teeth". Use in a jigsaw or a handle. http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-multi-purpose-jigsaw-blades-bayonet-t313aw-pack-of-3/33351
Haven't seen that, but I seen this, just about to order one off Ebay, shame our host don't stock it. https://www.campbellmillertools.co....t-saw-for-reciprocating-saw-blades-2608000495 A google finds Bosch 0603999007, which hold jigsaw blades, but I can't find stockist.
Wow those blades look just the job, now that I've finished cutting 160 odd pieces of 70mm Quinn Therm using a hand saw!!
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