Loose plaster! best way forward?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by graymattor, Feb 9, 2017.

  1. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Hi all


    I am looking for some advice! Isn’t everyone on here! That’s what makes this such a good source for information.


    I have recently bought a 1960's detached house that needed some modernisation! However it’s turning in to a lot more work than that!!


    I have just started the 2nd Bedroom, thinking it was the easiest room in the house, how wrong was I!! There were wooden battens above the widows for curtain rails but I didn’t want them (having blinds) so as I removed them chunks of plaster came off, fair enough to be expected! Then my partner started stripping the surrounding wallpaper and her scrapper went in to one of the holes and I chunk fell off!! So I started tapping the wall and it sounded hollow! Loose! Well that wouldn’t do so I thought I would take off what was looks, use bonding coat plater and then skim the wall, not to difficult! Before I did that I had to remove the radiator (replacing with new so had to come off) as I removed it again the plaster was falling off!! I started to knock it off and within half an hour the whole wall was back to bear brick/breeze block!!


    I am not at a crossing point, what is best to do!! The options are (please suggest any more)

    1) Just re-plaster (in the correct stages)?

    2) Dot and dab plaster board on and plaster?

    3) Stud frame and plaster board (I don’t want to lose too much floor space but can allow for some)

    4) Go for insulated plaster board around 30mm, dot and dab and plaster (as above regarding floor space)


    There will be two external walls to do, both have a window on. The house its self is quite cold and is oil fired central heating so I want to try and cut costs so would insulating board make a difference? My only concern is causing condensation, etc.?


    I would say I am an extreme DIYer and I have done most DIY jobs but I have never really done building work although I can do plastering.


    Any help or advice would be appreciated and also the steps of installation if I’m not asking too much.


    Thanks


    Chris
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Rewire the place if it's old or need upgrading, then complete replaster but use insulated plasterboard for the two exterior walls (my preference) or D&D dryline & skim the lot.
     
  3. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    I am in a similar place, except my back-to-brick is intentional. I was discussing with the building control man what to do with the external walls in the house, because my extension is under BC, so I took the opportunity to find out their view on insulation, bearing in mind I have read that in some areas if you take all the plaster off, BC may take the view that the insulation has to be upgraded.

    Local BC man said they didn't view taking the plaster off as a change that made insulation upgrading necessary, but said anything you can do would be an upgrade. I also asked him about risks of interstitial condensation, but he said stop reading the internet and just do it. Long and short, I'm going to dot and dabbing insulated plasterboard onto my external walls - I'm going to use 60mm insulation where I can and 27mm where I can't. I've D&D'd ordinary PB before, but not insulated. the instructions say to add a couple of mechanical fixings as well, supposedly as a fire protection, because in a fire insulated PB that is just D&D'd could fall off.

    From my research, no real difference in performance between insulated PB and separate battens, insulation and PB. If the walls are absolutely flat, battens + separate insulation are cheaper. If they are not D&D is easier to get flat.
     
  4. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Great thank you of your replies, very much appreciated.

    It’s great to hear some positives and not to worry about condensation! Condensation never even crossed my mind until I started researching on the internet and then it became all doom and gloom!!!!!

    The walls are not very good so dot and dab is the way to go! I’ve also read about using plastic fixings to prevent heat transfer from the cold wall to the warm room! But these wouldn’t be all that good from a fire regulation point of view.

    The second wall is not as bad you can hear it’s loose but it’s not falling off like the first wall, so I could just go on top of the plaster but I think I’ll remove it and put a thicker insulation board on.

    I am looking to re-wire as I go along, may as well since the hard work has already been done!!

    I am have considered using the insulated PB on all the external walls in the hope I can save on fuel!

    Thanks again

    PS have you found any good suppliers for the insulated PB?
     
  5. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    If the plaster is blown, just remove the lot,can save a lot of grief later:rolleyes: & also rewire/network while you have the chance.
     
  6. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Umm not sure if the plaster was brown, I don’t think it was!! However the base under the plaster on the wall was awful and has basically gone like powder!!! The plaster its self was good it’s the underneath that had separated.

    I must admit I have not thought about networking, is that worthwhile in a domestic property? Plus with the amount of rooms I would to install a network switch but they are getting cheaper. Food for thought...
     
  7. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    I just tend to use my local merchant http://www.cwberry.com/ who are always pretty competitive and deliver to site for free. Watch out, there is a bit of a shortage of PIR at the moment due to some chemical unavailability, so check stocks - my builder had to shop around to get 100mm celotex for floor insulation this week as all the local merchants were out of stock.
     
  8. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    One thing that went down well with the wife was to wire a few speakers into the ceiling with just a socket visible for her to plug in a device and and a low voltage supply to charge it.

    It always worth looking at the services while you are making a mess - replacing the extractor fan / placing an isolator switch outside, electric shower wiring etc.

    I would even look at the plumbing while you are there as you would be gutted to do all the work and find a slow leak - or the other half (like mine did) asks if it wouldn't be too difficult to move the toilet ...

    As Kiab says, insulated plasterboard on the outside walls unless you have a bath or shower there and you should use a cement board instead.
     
  9. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Brown,:confused: I said blown, it's a term for plaster that is loose, which has come away from the surface/backing.
     
  10. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    I am somewhat concerned why so much has blown. Normally, its down to some underlying problem damp or structural
     
  11. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Great tip, that’s a good idea, I think I’ll look at doing that, the kids do like to put their music on and it sounds awful out the TV so if speakers are in the ceiling we may not get as much sound travelling to the down stairs rooms.


    Ha-ha!! Really sorry about that, if no idea how I managed to miss read what you put!!


    Yes this has me a little concerned also, but it only seems to be in this one room, I have checked the others, well I have tapped the walls and they sounds solid where this room sounded hollow!!


    Thank you for the tip, would you say PIR is the better one to choose? I have seen several different types on the market and I am not sure what is best! I do not want to buy cheap but I do not have the budget for expensive so something mid-range would be great, but I’m sure anything would be an improvement! I guess I am probably better getting one with a foil barrier? Or is that not really necessary?
     
  12. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    I did a job a few weeks ago and fitted insulated boards. What you are looking for is fairly dense material and avoid the ones which are like polystyrene on the back. Have a look at some of the videos and guides on installing them as there is a "proper" way of fitting them around windows and internal corners.

    Some boards will take Dot and Dab compound or expanding foam adhesive. Which every method you use add in some frame fixers - the bigger the head the better.

    Depending on the thickness of the old plaster / new boards, you may have to adjust any plumbing to cope with the changes in thickness.
     
  13. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Thanks

    Ive been looking at some videos, Siniat have done a couple of good ones but not covered windows yet and internal corners, they used the dot and dab method. Ive already factored in adjusting the radiator pipes and i will be running new cables in the room and now speaker wires lol!!
     
  14. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Just a quick question, from a cost point of view it appears that buying the insulation board and plasterboard seperate is much more cost effective, if i dot and dab the installation board to the wall is there a way to attach the plasterboard to the insulation board?

    for example - Cellotex 50mm £18 + plasterboard 12.5mm £7 = £25
    62.5mm Cellotex insulated plasterboard £38

    Thsst quite a difference!!

    Thanks
     
  15. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

  16. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    If your doing up to sell I would dot and dab the lot and tape and joint, if your doing up to live in I would dot and dab the lot and plaster as little more hard wearing.
     
  17. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    Oh yeah and use the picture frame method for dot and dabbing.
     
  18. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Thanks, i need to look a little more in to dot and dabbing, but thats the planned method of putting it up.

    I think i am going to plaster it but i will be fully wallpapering the room, i dont know a lot about tape and joint, it feels like a short cut! is it commonly used and acceptable? at the moment not sure if we are doing up to sell or staying!!

    Do you think the basic will be good enough? i know anything is better than nothing but i thought i read somewhere to avoid the polystyrene due to int not being very good, but not sure where or why!

    Thanks
     
  19. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Use an 'all in one' board...less hassle time wise. If you can plaster, then definitely skim whole wall...proper job and materials cheap.
     
  20. graymattor

    graymattor New Member

    Yeah I am with you on the less hassle!! And yes I think I will be skimming when installed.

    I have just come across this on eBay! I messaged them and they have come back saying it’s made by Ballytherm with Knauf plasterboard, the price is £37 for 4 boards which sounds too good to be true!! I’ve asked for more details regarding the insulation and if they have bonded the two together or its from factory (looking at their website they dont do insulated plasterboard), but it looks like its PIR, if it’s a lower grade PIR surely this would be better than the polystyrene board? Mind you if it’s the same it still works out a load cheaper!!

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Insulated-Plasterboard-1200mm-x-600mm-pack-of-4-38mm-12-5mm-50-5mm-/252199262329?

    Just out of curiosity, why would you only want basic insulation in a bedroom?
     

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