Moving a mains socket - how to invisibly blank old socket hole

Cut plasterboard then fit in the the hole, may take 3 pieces stuck together with filler and then finish off flush with toupret filler sanded and emulsioned.

 

That's a lazy way of doing the job really and now you've got the problem of live cables and connections in the wall

The original socket can't be filled in now as there needs to be some indication of live cables present - hence a blanking plate would usually be fitted

Also connections need to be accessible, although dependant on method used ( maintenance free JB / crimps then no)

Seems like the builder and spark needed to talk this through first, especially as you wanted an invisible repair

I'm only diy so more advice (or better) may follow

 

I'm only advising about filling the holes.

 

Hi Astra, I'm not having a pop at your reply honest , had to read the OP several times to understand the situation

Used your method myself several times to great effect. When I go to my local tip I usually ask for a couple of PB off cuts as they recycle this there. Usually really decent sized offcuts just laying there and as long as it's been dry, comes in handy for the odd diy repair

 

Your above post is only addressing one issue though and that is the method of connection to extend the ring

Whatever method is used, I'm still sure that you can't simply plaster flush over the old socket box as there will be no indication that live cables are present in that section of wall (if the ring is extended from that point)

Wiring to and from sockets is run vertically and / or horizontally within zones. A face plate gives an indication that cables are present around that area (or blanking plate)

Your proposition, irrespective of jointing method, would give no indication of live cables

I'm sure some sparks will be on later, I'm diy (as my name)

 

To my knowledge cables have to be 50mm into the wall and protected by an RCD. I'm also interested in this post as that is what I have seen done.

 

The question is the feed from the old to new. The location has two wires one in, one out ? so you could just use a junction box of the right size http://www.screwfix.com/p/30a-3-terminal-heavy-duty-junction-box-black/7552d

 

Not sure on that method that is a mechanical connection which could come loose. Especially if you are plastering over.Then if there is a fault sparks will never find it. The crimping would be a much better option surely

 

I know I'm only a diyer and could be well wrong here but is the main issue with this method not being missed ?

If the joint is to be buried or made not accessible then yep, must be a maintenance free joint (various options)

But then plastering over the joint and redundant socket leaves live cables in the wall with no indication , ie no outlet, accessory or blank plate

If an existing cable is damaged in the wall, (drilled into usually)then cut out replace and crimped, then plaster away, fine. There will be an accessory in the zone that should indicate the presence of a live cable - but not in the above case...... I think..... But could be wrong...... Bloody diyers eh

 

Zones are the issue here. You need to leave the sockets, or have blank plates. You should of lifted the floor.

 

Where do you find the information on zones? elec. I know in general cables run vertically.then through ceilings/attics. But sometimes you see them run horizontal.

 

The new socket you would assume cable run is vertical, either up or down. Removing the faceplate would confirm this. May be horizontal run if in zone and other sockets are nearby on the same line

The old socket, now removed and plastered in, even with maintenance free connections, where is the indication that live cables are present ?

The path from old to new is now diagonal- complies with regs ??

 

Horizontal is ok provided it lines up with an at least one accessory.

 

As said above

Are people not missing the issue here Seneca ? Or is it me ?

Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong

 

They just don't get it do they Dave, its not that bloody complicated is it!

 

Dave Stewart, just give in and fit a blanking plate, it will hardly notice if you paint it the same colour as the wall and it will save you a lot of bother with the connection arrangements, just a bit of choc-block is all that will be required!